Sewing Bras - Designing a New Style Based on a Well Fitting Pattern (aka Block)

Now that the Costume Season (aka Halloween) is over, lingerie sewing has resumed its full course. Yay!

In my pursuit to further my (bra) education, I've decided to try out a new style with different materials.  As I am not quite ready to completely draft my own patterns from scratch, using a well fitting pattern (aka Block) seemed like a step in the right direction.

I really liked this style of bra: integrated powerbar/lower cups with strap tab with small section of lace upper. Add a few minor tweaks to suite my particular preferences (lower center gore and foam lower cups) and its perfect!

[Cleo Lucy, Gorsenia Marlene, and Freya Arabella]

As I already had a great fitting foam bra pattern (my fabulous Comexim copy - details Here), I used it as my block.  Following the directions from the Bra-Makers Manual (Vol 2) by Beverly Johnson, I ended up with this:

Basically taking the curves off, draw new lines then add curves back on. [You can see a bit of this in action on Erin's Blog Here] A quick muslin (just one cup) then basted into my test band, and we were ready to for final adjustments.

Here's the final!  I'm super spiffed.

THE PROCESS

I cut out the lower cup pieces in cut-and-sew foam and identical pieces in my fashion fabric.  The satin-y material is wonderful under fitted clothing. For the upper pieces, I used a stretch lace from Trim Expo during my last foray into the Fashion District (Nice selection, great prices!). Then cut the same pieces in bra tulle for the lining.  Since I wasn't using a pattern with accompanying instructions, I assembled the pieces together in the order that made the most sense to me. Zig zag foam pieces together then sew lower cup fabric pieces together. Baste tulle and lace together, add tiny elastic for neckline, sew combined upper cup piece to combined lower cup pieces.  Sew just the strap tab portion of the fabric to the foam (right sides of fabric to wrong side of foam) then flip open. With wrong side of fabric facing up (and right side of foam), overlap the fabric and foam a few mm and sew INSIDE the seam allowance.  Flip over and top stitch on the cross seam.  Pin down lower edges of fabric to foam and baste.  Finish as usual.

A few minor tweaks to the band - added a gothic arch and doubled up on the power mesh in the back.  Also some adjustments to accommodate the lace on the back band.

THE FIT

I am pleased to report it fits! [with caveats].  Cups fit wonderfully - a little too good as this is definitely a push up bra w/ lots of cleavage.  Since I used the Comexim pattern, the girls are lifted and centered without the help of any additional padding or internal slings!  The gravity defying shape was created by relatively FLAT cups (the cups gain shape when they conform to the underwire) - contrary to everything I've read about bra making thus far.  Immediate projection at the wire is non-existent - this would normally cause major fitting issues for me but not in this time! The bust point of Comexim bra cups tend to be above my bust point (I believe this is by design) and was also perfect for this particular re-design.

THE PROBLEMS

My myopic focus on the cups had caused some oversight on the band.  1.) I had raised the height of the wide wings (for that super sleek silhouette I crave) but had forgotten to raise the back band as well.  Thus the band only has 3 hooks in the back, caused some lumps and bumps. 2.) I had also doubled the powermesh for the back band AND added stretch lace resulting in significantly less stretch.  Thank goodness I had one of those bra extenders handy! 3.) The shorter back band also made the back straps too far apart. Sigh.

Overall I'm very pleased.

Sewing Bras - More Watsons! An experiment in stretch and support

I'm on a Watson kick!  After making my first retro inspired wireless bra and discovering how COMFY it is, I quickly made a few more (including one as a gift!).  In this iteration, no alterations were made to the pattern, just different fabrics and powernet.  All three were make in size 32F (I'm usually a 32E/F in UK sizes).

FABRIC BREAKDOWN
Striped Watson - Slighter heavier Medium weight Knit with FIRM powernet through out.  Fabric has the recommended 75% stretch. Brief pattern from Bare Essentials.

Red Watson - Medium weight Knit with doubled fashion fabric - NO powernet.  Fabric has the recommended 75% stretch. Brief pattern from Bare Essentials w/ modifications.

Blue Watson - Medium weight Ribbed knit with LIGHT powernet throughout. Fabric has the recommended 75% stretch. Bikini pattern from Watson Kit.

Power nets - Light has about 100% stretch, Medium about 50% and Firm about 30%


FIT
While both the Red and the Blue Watson were comfy around the band, the cups from Blue Watson fit better.  It provided more coverage and moved with the body better.  The Red Watson was a close second with the cups ever so slightly too small.  Time will tell how the Red Watson holds up as without the powernet, will likely loose its elasticity quickly.  The Striped Watson was simply too small in the cups.  This is likely due to the FIRM powernet not having enough stretch.  After actually WEARING the Striped Watson for a day, I revise my statement. FIRM powernet does have some stretch and conforms to the body after a short while. I no longer feel like I have side boob and the Striped Watson provides the most support in the band AND the cups.  The girls looked perkiest with the FIRM powernet but also oddly squished - this is likely due to the cups being too small as the pattern was designed for fabrics with significantly more stretch and is the powernet I would recommend for those with larger cups.  I can easily wear this out on short trips without worrying about headlights. In all three cases, I added plastic boning to the side seams to help keep the band from rolling up but also helps with support (especially with larger cups) and overall silhouette.  Once on, I found the side boning to be un-noticable and was able to sleep with no problems.

For ladies who are on the larger cup side, I would highly recommend the FIRM powernet for the bridge/band and either MEDIUM power net for the cups or FIRM but GO UP A SIZE.  I would wager that the best configuration for those who are more well endowed, would be FIRM bridge/band and Medium cups.  This will be the combo I try next.

Here's the reason why:

Those are fine threads of lycra/elastic coming apart at the seams of the LIGHT Powernet from my first Watson (LIGHT powernet in cups, MEDIUM powernet in band with Knit Terry fabric)  I've worn it twice, washed once.  Its possible the LIGHT powernet simply cannot support the weight of larger cups.  No matter, its super comfy and I will likely continue to wear it until it falls apart.  Given I will likely only wear my Watson's at home AND the fraying is on the inside, no one can tell.

Woo!  And now I have a few matching sets for lounging around in this 100+ degree weather!