Sewing Bras - Designing a New Style Based on a Well Fitting Pattern (aka Block)

Now that the Costume Season (aka Halloween) is over, lingerie sewing has resumed its full course. Yay!

In my pursuit to further my (bra) education, I've decided to try out a new style with different materials.  As I am not quite ready to completely draft my own patterns from scratch, using a well fitting pattern (aka Block) seemed like a step in the right direction.

I really liked this style of bra: integrated powerbar/lower cups with strap tab with small section of lace upper. Add a few minor tweaks to suite my particular preferences (lower center gore and foam lower cups) and its perfect!

[Cleo Lucy, Gorsenia Marlene, and Freya Arabella]

As I already had a great fitting foam bra pattern (my fabulous Comexim copy - details Here), I used it as my block.  Following the directions from the Bra-Makers Manual (Vol 2) by Beverly Johnson, I ended up with this:

Basically taking the curves off, draw new lines then add curves back on. [You can see a bit of this in action on Erin's Blog Here] A quick muslin (just one cup) then basted into my test band, and we were ready to for final adjustments.

Here's the final!  I'm super spiffed.

THE PROCESS

I cut out the lower cup pieces in cut-and-sew foam and identical pieces in my fashion fabric.  The satin-y material is wonderful under fitted clothing. For the upper pieces, I used a stretch lace from Trim Expo during my last foray into the Fashion District (Nice selection, great prices!). Then cut the same pieces in bra tulle for the lining.  Since I wasn't using a pattern with accompanying instructions, I assembled the pieces together in the order that made the most sense to me. Zig zag foam pieces together then sew lower cup fabric pieces together. Baste tulle and lace together, add tiny elastic for neckline, sew combined upper cup piece to combined lower cup pieces.  Sew just the strap tab portion of the fabric to the foam (right sides of fabric to wrong side of foam) then flip open. With wrong side of fabric facing up (and right side of foam), overlap the fabric and foam a few mm and sew INSIDE the seam allowance.  Flip over and top stitch on the cross seam.  Pin down lower edges of fabric to foam and baste.  Finish as usual.

A few minor tweaks to the band - added a gothic arch and doubled up on the power mesh in the back.  Also some adjustments to accommodate the lace on the back band.

THE FIT

I am pleased to report it fits! [with caveats].  Cups fit wonderfully - a little too good as this is definitely a push up bra w/ lots of cleavage.  Since I used the Comexim pattern, the girls are lifted and centered without the help of any additional padding or internal slings!  The gravity defying shape was created by relatively FLAT cups (the cups gain shape when they conform to the underwire) - contrary to everything I've read about bra making thus far.  Immediate projection at the wire is non-existent - this would normally cause major fitting issues for me but not in this time! The bust point of Comexim bra cups tend to be above my bust point (I believe this is by design) and was also perfect for this particular re-design.

THE PROBLEMS

My myopic focus on the cups had caused some oversight on the band.  1.) I had raised the height of the wide wings (for that super sleek silhouette I crave) but had forgotten to raise the back band as well.  Thus the band only has 3 hooks in the back, caused some lumps and bumps. 2.) I had also doubled the powermesh for the back band AND added stretch lace resulting in significantly less stretch.  Thank goodness I had one of those bra extenders handy! 3.) The shorter back band also made the back straps too far apart. Sigh.

Overall I'm very pleased.

Sewing Bras - Pinup Girls Classic Bra Pattern

Yay! My order from Bra Makers Supply came in! In addition to their very popular Classic Bra Pattern, I also picked up the Bra-makers Manual volume 1 and 2.

Feeling brave after reading the thorough instructions and hearing about all the great reviews about this pattern, I decided to sew it up without making a toile first! It's SOO nice to read sewing instructions that are not only well written, but geared toward beginners. Although I've sewed a half dozen bras already, the methods I used were gathered haphazardly - a few sew-alongs, an online video, random  Google searches on specific techniques. I can definitely see why so many people recommend this pattern as their first foray into sewing underwire bras - makes wonder why I didn't choose it myself.  There is something to be said about paying for a well made sewing pattern and the accompanying instructions. Nevertheless, the tidbits helped improve my sewing - creating neater stitches and more refined workflow.

BRA SIZE
I did a bit of research to see how others chose their size as the size recommended using the instructions yielded 32A... It gave me chuckle as I haven't been a true A cup since high school. After stalking her (Beverly Johnson's) blog, I found this link. She discusses the 4 common ways to measure for bra size, as well as their pro/cons. While she uses the underbust/overbust method most frequently, she freely admits it doesn't work well for petite women. She did mention that the  Bottom Cup Depth method is the most accurate and I agree with this. Luckily, the BCD measurement yielded the same bra size as the ABTF calculator in my case - now a 32E (post weaning).

CONSTRUCTION AND ALTERATIONS
The bra sewed up pretty quickly - no  linings or lace to fiddle with -  and true to unlined bras, easily showed you where adjustments needed to be made. Initially, it looked like there was too much projection the cups as the apex wrinkled but seemed to fit everywhere else. I had started pinning to reduce the projection when I remembered something from Beverly's Manual about taking in just the bottom cup depth.  A few pins later, the cups fit!  I think this particular method only works with my particular body type though. The only other alternation I had to make was taking a wedge out of the bridge under the arms. I found this change to harder to transfer to my  pattern than the others but thankfully the Manual had instructions for that too.

Picture of my super quick ALL BASTE STITCH tester in Simplex

FIT
It fits pretty well! The center gore is a hair too narrow - my fault as I just eyeballed the amount I needed to take in since it's pretty much need to take it in for all bras. Cups are pretty spot on after taking in the the lower cups only.  Still scratching my head on that one a bit - I've been TOO projected for many RTW unlined bras so this is a change. The dart I inserted in the  bridge could stand to be taken in a smidge more as well. Band is stretchier than I would like - the 32 fit more like a 34 as I have them on the tightest hooks. But that's an easy fix. I may double up on the medium powernet or just shorten the band next time.  Straps are pretty comfy and STAY on despite my sloped shoulders.

CONCLUSION
The Pin-up Girls Classic Bra Pattern is an excellent first (or second, third or sixth) underwire bra pattern.  Instructions are thorough with pictures and the patterns themselves are organized in a way that is easy to find.  While the full coverage style itself isn't earth shattering, it does make fitting easier and a well-fitting bra will beat a cute ill-fitting one any day. I forsee this pattern translating well into a nursing bra, demi cup and foam cup versions and for the intrepid, a sport bra (with the help of the Bra Makers Manual).

Sewing Bras - Adjusting Your Custom Bra to Your Liking

 Custom Bra attempt #3 (or bra #5 in the grand scheme of things)!

After my last round of attempting to copy and merge various elements from two RTW bras with some minor adjustments, I (surprise, surprise) discovered I needed more adjustments!  

Adjustment #1 - My bright idea of moving in the straps 2 cm seemed to flatten me out.  I believe it has to do with the combination of the style and possibly the materials. The material I used for the foam lining is notably "softer" than the original thus slightly less structure?  In a different style that is more "natural" and/or unlined, moving the straps 2 cm shouldn't make that much of a difference.  Oh well.  Lesson learned.

Adjustment #2 - In order to better mimic the RTW bra, I decided to try an "external" power bar.  Incidentally, the RTW bra had both padded "internal" (inside the cups) and "external" (outside the cups) power bar!  I had assumed the exterior power bar was for visual appeal only.  How wrong I was! The power bar helps brings the girls up and center better than the bra alone.  Even with higher side wings (more on that below).  I lined up two of the outer cup pattern pieces to draft the power bar pattern as a starting point.  Since the power bar was going to be made of stretchy material, it didn't have to be exact.  I took my lightweight powernet (only type of powernet I had at the time) and folded it over so it was double layered and cut while lining up the fold on the straight edge.  Then I cut a matching set in the last bit of matching lace I had.  Zigzagged the three layers together with a bit of lingerie elastic and it was ready to attach to the main bra.  The main portion of the bra was already complete at the point and I was feeling lazy, sooo... I just sewed it on to the cradle of the bra following the stitches from the wire casing.   Same with the portion of the cups to the straps.  It made it kinda bulky but did the job!

Adjustment #3 - By far the easiest adjustment with minimal issues, I went ahead and raised the height of the side wings a full inch.  Its still not quite as high as the RTW bra I have, but a bit more comfortable while still keeping a smooth silhouette.  [If you're wondering why in the world I would want to raise the side wings, check out my review on Satami bras!]

Adjustment #4 - I decided to try my hand and adding lace detail that didn't have finished edges.  It requires lots of zig zaging in different angles but thankfully, I have some free hand embroidery experience.

Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the end result!  The bra lifts and "shapes" as I had hoped.  It creates a rounder profile, which I prefer, and brings the girls closer together.  My boobs have never felt better.  No more settling for ill fitting RTW bras where the center gore is too wide [so its sitting on breast tissue], too tall [so its jabbing me in the chest], narrow back bands [causing back rolls, ugh], and my arms rubbing against my boobs when driving [I'm narrow set but they point wide].  I felt good enough about the bra to make a pair of matching panties late into the night.  The pattern is based off the highly rated Merckenwaerdigh Mix 30.

I highly recommend trying to sew your own bra if you tend to have issues with most RTW bras.  You can purchase bra making kits for less than cost of a full price bra at Nordstroms.  Try out the FREE Maya Bra pattern from AFI Atelier (check out my review on them here) and/or take a look at the instructions.  If you have ANY experience sewing, try it out.  If you have zero experience with sewing but NEED pricey bras (cuz small band + large cups = $$$$), it may be worth your time and effort to learn to sew!  With bra making kits at the same price as a new bra, what do you have to lose?

The Long Awaited Satami Bra Review!

Its here!  Its finally here!  Satami has graciously sent me a few bras to review after I inquired about their bras availability here in the US.

The long awaited bras from Satami and my accompanying review.

Aren't they gorgeous?  We have the Lace Minimizer Soft Cup Bra (2180) in Smoky Black on the left and Non-Wired Sports Bra (2198) in Blue on the right.  

Lace Minimizer Soft Cup Bra (2180)

The Lace Minimizer Soft Cup Bra (2180) has a few misnomers.  First of all, its not a "minimizer" in the traditional (American) sense.   This bra DOES NOT minimize the size or look of breasts in ANY way shape or form.  Its called a Minimizer because of the the overall slimming effect it has on the body (think silhouette) by smoothing out back and/or underarm fat.  More details on that below.  The second misnomer is the "soft cup" - make no mistake, this is an UNDERWIRED bra with lightly lined fabric cups (ie. soft).

DESIGN AND STYLE

Typical to Asian style bras, this plunge bra pushes the girls up and together (even with the padding removed).  One feels supported and *shock* slimmer!  Thanks to the extra wide band, there is ZERO and I mean ZERO back fat, or underarm fat.  The sleek silhouette is addicting.  Its akin to wearing shapewear that also happens to be a bra.  To help keep everything in place is a 4 row, 4 column hook and eye in the back.  The bra also features an ultra low center gores so common in Asian bras (low when compared to Panach or Freya, only 'medium' low within the Satami line) - a haven for us narrow set ladies - and 3/4 cup (aka demi?).  [Need a primer on Asian bras? Check out my first Satami post here.] The straps are fixed and NOT fully adjustable.  For this reason, it may not work for those with tall roots.  [Need a primer on the vocab? Try the ABTF Glossary]  True to design, the 2-ply "Wincool" powernet seems to do the job.  I wore this bra (padding removed) to an Amusement Park on a 90+ degree day and did not feel like the girls were suffocating.  Speaking of which, the padding feels pretty great too - a bit like memory foam but I have not tried wearing them.  The side wings have 2 pieces of boning on each side for extra support - not uncomfortable - they contribute significantly to the support of the band (I learned of their importance first hand during my foray in to sewing my first bra).  Lastly, I do want to mention that while there was no chafing after a full day of wearing this bra (12+ hours) there was a bit of irritation under the arms due to the high side wings.  This is likely due to my higher levels of activity and extra long hours of wearing - it is unlikely for someone to experience this during a typical day at the office.

FIT

My normal size in European brands like Panache or Freya is 32F (sometimes 32E as I'm loosing weight).  In Satami, I wear a 34G.  Per the Satami website, you can go up a cup size for more coverage.  After a few 12+ hour days of wearing this bra, I can say with some confidence that if you are accustomed to wearing Polish bras like Comexim IN YOUR NORMAL BAND SIZE, order your normal band size.  For example, I wear a 70H (equivalent to 32 band) in Comexim but it IS a bit tight and great for days when I'm feeling thin and not bloated.  Basically, first thing in the morning before any type of meal.  I do feel like a 32 band would have sufficed for me BUT I am accustomed to wearing tighter bands and wear tightlacing corsets occasionally.  For most of us though, going up a band size is going to be more comfortable.  The wires are comfortably in my IMF, although pretty high on the sides due to the higher side wings.  Thankfully, the wires are also pretty soft so not uncomfortable.  Center gore tacks nicely and the wide set straps stay put on my sloped shoulders.  As I briefly mentioned before, the straps are NOT fully adjustable and fill likely suffice for those with Short Roots.  Those with tall roots may need to replace the plush elastic portion with a longer section - not a difficult fix if you're handy with needle and thread.  I have short roots and had to "let out" the elastic practically to the max...

CONCLUSION

I really like this bra!  Its pretty comfy despite the higher wires, extra boning and extra wide band.  There was very little (if any) fidgeting while wearing and my silhouette looked awesome.  Girls were up front and center while being supported.  Its the Asian equivalent of the holy grail Polish bras - from the tighter bands, overall shape the cups provide and needing to size up in the cups.  Oh, and it passed the chasing after toddlers, walking up and down the stairs test. =)  Full disclosure though, I'm FoB, not center-full and my breast tissue is still pretty firm. I think these style of bras - low center gore, plunge, shallow-ish cups work REALLY WELL with those whose shape is more shallow or FoB.

Non-Wired Sports Bra (2198)

The Non-Wired Sports Bra is as beautiful as any of their regular bras.  Gorgeous detailing and a 4 hook clasp in the back for ease.  However, the most SURPRISING aspect of this Sports Bra is how pushed up and forward the girls are - all without the help of any boning or wires.  Unlike most wireless bras that are compression based, this bra by some miracle, supports without smooshing the girls against your chest. Like their regular bra line, this sports bra also features a plunge - although not as deep - just enough to glimpse a bit of cleavage. Add this to your rotation for those days at barre class, yoga, power walking or other light exercise.  Its comfortable to wear lounging around the house and the saleswoman at the Personal Touch Store also mentioned its a great sleep bra!

DESIGN AND STYLE

Like Satami's regular bras, the Wireless Sport Bra also features extra wide bands and plunge center.  The bra looks deceivingly shallow until you put it on.  Materials are light and airy but substantial enough to be supportive.  The cup portion of the bra comes up pretty high (as in elastic straps start 1 inch before my shoulder) but not uncomfortable. Unlike the typical wireless sports bras we find in the US, the cups are NOT made of stretchy material designed to compress the girls against your chest.  The cups are made of the same material as their regular bras - thus the feeling of structured support without wires or boning.  Like Satami's other bras, the back features a 4 row - 4 column clasp for ease.  The band is a single layer of powernet to guarantee breathability during those workouts!  

FIT

As mentioned above, my usual size in UK brands is 32F.  Satami sent me a 34E in this style and it still fits comfortably as its sister size to my usual - no need to size up here!  This makes complete sense as Satami uses UK sizing [bit of history here - HK was once a part of the British Empire for those that remember]. 

CONCLUSION

Great bra for lounging around the house, sleeping and light physical activity.  Although I have not worn this one yet, I can easily foresee wearing this around the house, sleeping and/or while pregnant!

Personal Touch Lingerie and What to Expect at Asian Lingerie Stores

For all this talk about Asian bras and where to get them, I thought I should cover one local source for those in the Los Angeles area.  For those whom are not fluent in the language, stepping foot in an ethnic lingerie store can be intimidating.  Hopefully I can provide some insight to better prepare you.

PERSONAL TOUCH STORES
Today, we will specifically talk about the Personal Touch Lingerie stores.  Partially because I have personally purchased Satami bras there but also because they are the ONLY retailer licensed to sell Satami Lingerie in the United States due to an exclusive contract.

I've been to a few of their locations and they all seem to have the same look - characteristic of a chain store.  Well lit, clean with nice displays, the store is welcoming yet cozy like a boutique.  Typical of many lingerie stores, the sales people will offer to help you find what you're looking for - which is often followed by a "can I measure you?".  Those of you who know your ABTF size and tried to shop for that size know that sales people will 1.) try to convince you that you are wrong or 2.) sister size you into a bra size that they actually carry.

MY EXPERIENCE
Today was no exception.  A woman with flawless skin and good English assists me.  She measures me and tells me I'm a 36E.  I practically laughed.  I told her that I already own a 32 and the band still fits - tight but fits.  Still not convinced, she hands me a 34E to start with and will "go from there".  At least the 34E is a sister size to my usual 32F (UK).  I try it on and the band fits but cups were too small.  She then has me try on a 34G.  It fits almost perfectly.

She then brings out a few different styles in the same size.  We go through a few iterations of trying things on, assessing fit and preferred style.  While she always asked to come back in, there were many times were I was expected to change with her still in the room.  More than once, she helped pull the girls forward while trying on a bra.

Typical of my experiences at Personal Touch (and other lingerie stores), she brings bras in my preferred style (underwire) but also other styles (wireless, sports bra).  You are not required to try anything on but it may take SEVERAL polite "no, thank you's" to get the message across.  Repeat for shapewear, underwear, etc.

In short, lingerie shopping at an Asian boutique (or perhaps all boutique lingerie stores for that matter) is not for the faint of heart.  The sales people are very hands on, talk non-stop and do not hold back (such point out that the low rise bikini you're wearing might be better suited for someone younger and might I consider a light shaping brief?).

RECOMMENDATIONS
1.) Know your UK size (Satami is based in Hong Kong, which uses the UK standard)
2.) Be firm and become a broken record (temporarily)
3.) Be thick skinned.  Know there is no ill will - whether implied or stated.  They are there to assist you (and make a sale) by being straight forward.

Optional
4.) Call ahead to find the name of a sales person who speaks fluent English and make an appointment with them.  I cannot tell you the number of times I walked into a Personal Touch store and they only spoke in Mandarin Chinese.  The Arcadia location was the only one I've been to where the sales lady was fluent.

***********************

My experience is in no way representative of ALL Asian run lingerie stores and only serves as a glimpse of what may occur.  If having a bit of insight prevents someone from freaking out at the store because they have an idea of what to expect, then all the better.

Satami Bras - An Introduction!

EDIT 5/30/2017: To include www.satamiusa.com site and review.

In my pursuit to find a bra that fits, I rediscovered an old favorite: bras by Asian Brand, Satami Lingerie.

ABOUT SATAMI

Satami is a Hong Kong based Lingerie Brand that offers bras which have some interesting features.  Many Asian brand bras focus on pushing the girls, up and forward to create the maximum amount of cleavage.  What sets Satami apart is their ultra wide bands and underarm crescents - both designed to smooth out bra induced bulges.  While their range of sizes is not as large as popular European bra companies like Panache or Freya, I have found their bras to be a haven for those with narrow set breasts who usually seek relief with plunge styles or have gone Polish with Comexim or Ewa bras.  Satami bras seem to range from 32A to 44G.  In my limited experience, that 32 band in Satami is closer to a 30 band in UK sizes. More on sizing below.

Their website (https://www.online-satami.com/home) is well designed and has the ability to search by size and style number.  They ship internationally to most of Asia, Europe and North America with the exception of the United States.  Satami has an exclusive distribution agreement with Personal Touch Lingerie in the US so all sales must go through them.  Personal Touch Online Store: www.shopptouch.com.  Please note that the returns/exchanges policy varies between the two sites so please read accordingly.  There is one last option: www.satamiusa.com.  This link seems to be a portal to the Personal Touch site as it states PTL Global at the top of the web page AND the return/exchange policy is the same as Personal Touch.

ONLINE STORES

I found the Personal Touch online store to be utilitarian.  The photos are smaller, fewer and of lower quality.  There is no zoom or the ability to search by bra size.  While there is a drop down menu to filter by size, it didn't pull up the one bra I liked in my size.  I would recommend using the Satami online website to do initial research then jot down the style number.  Use the style number to find the item you want on the the Personal Touch site.  This is also due in part to the fact many of the official bra names are pretty generic. Example Lace Full Cup Bra (2185) is completely different design than Lace Full Cup Bra (2187). Prices seem to be the same as in store.

Satami USA site requires one to create an account before you can view prices AND a passcode (password: shape).  The usability and ease of navigation is almost identical to that of the Satami Online site.  Lots of photos, details, ability to zoom, sort by size, etc.  All styles are available through this site including SALE items! Items on this site seem to be a bit cheaper than the Personal Touch site (between $5 and $11 on the 2 bras I tried on).

The Satami online webstore is pretty great with lots of info, pictures, and the ability to search by size, style and color.  I very much liked their "Personal Shop" - a curated selection of items in your size, style and shape.  To "activate" just click on the "Get Fitted" button at the top right or "Online Bra Fitting" at the very bottom of the Home Page.  They will ask you a series of questions that somewhat mirror our discussions at A Bra That Fits.

Narrow vs Wide Set

Shape. This isn't as extensive as ABTF but is much more detailed than most bra manufacturers!

This was the part I had the most issues with.  

It took some trial and error to get the calculator to "come up" with my correct Satami size.  It took me 4 tries but I got the best results from using my tight underbust measurement with the smallest bust measurement (laying for me) while not on my period/bloated/or nursing.  Measure the upperbust (underarm) according to their instructions.

I am fortunate to live in an area with several Personal Touch Lingerie stores and took a trip especially for you guys!  There have been quite a number of you who are curious about the fit and size conversion from UK sizing.  Officially, Satami uses the UK standard (from their FAQ):

What is your bra sizing standard?

Remember there is no universal standard for bras and bra sizing varies between brands and countries. Whilst we follow UK standard, there may still be little difference

I find using your UK size as a good starting point.  [Don't know your UK bra size? Try this very data oriented bra calculator!]  Due to their extra wide band, Satami bras are ALOT less stretchy than any other brand I've ever tried (US, UK or Polish!).  For example, the 32D bra I bought many moons ago measures 25" in band length but only stretches to 30.5" (full data on Bratabase.com).

BRA SIZE AND FIT

Here's the ultimate testament: I wear 32F/32E in most UK brands (Panache, Freya and Fantasie).  In Satami, I wear 34G.  I attribute sizing up in the cup partially to the lightly lined "padding" in the cups (pocket and side wings, crescents in the cups, etc), the shallow cups due the plunge style and for more coverage.  When I tried on the bra in 34F (up one band, up one cup), the cups were still too small.  Lots of quadding and wrinkles under the cups as it wasn't projected enough at the wire - or at the apex.  For reference, I have wide roots that are narrow set with lots of immediate projection at the wire.  [Need help with the terminology? Try the ABTF Glossary!] So size up in the band for comfort (unless you are accustomed to tightlacing corsets) and increase the cup size by 1 or 2.  This means those of you who wear a 30 band have a fighting chance of fitting the 32 band in Satami!  I should also add that these styles of bras - plunge, low center gore, shallow-ish cups are GREAT for those whose shape are on the shallow side or FoB.

I hope to get my hands on some Satami bras to review (in detail) soon!  In the mean time, check out my experience shopping for Asian bras in store in California at Personal Touch Lingerie!

My Induction to Bra Making

BIT OF BACKGROUND:

Have you heard that statistic about most women in the US are wearing the wrong sized bra?  I know I have and systematically discarded it.  

"That's them" I thought. 

I had been measured by the ladies at Nordstroms and tiny lingerie boutiques - all the same size 32D.  Well, that was before I had kids.  After wearing comfy nursing bras for 4 years, my body has changed enough to warrant new bras.  So off to Nordstroms I went - they promptly sized me at 32DD.  After the initial sticker shock wore off and brought the one bra home, I went online in search of similar bras in my new size.  Stumbled upon the Reddit thread A Bra That Fits.  

Oh My!

The knowledge from that one site turned my world upside down. For starters they needed 5 measurements to calculate your size. They addressed shape, volume, how the girls point, where the girls point, which bras worked with which shapes and why.  SO. MUCH. INFORMATION. Where has this been all my life?  Curious, I measured and entered my stats into their calculator fully expecting it to confirm my 32DD status.  Surely their calculator will be THE most accurate since it requires more data.  My analytical side was kicking in. OMG. HOW WRONG I WAS.  The ABTF calculator put me at 32F/FF.  Wait, what?  I was confident that the calculator would put in at least in the same realm (maybe 1 cup off) as my old size but this was 4 (FOUR!) sizes bigger.  My mind is racing.  I had gained some weight postpartum but the band size remains the same. Could it be possible I only gained weight around my hips and boobs?  Hilarious.  Then it dawns on me.  The majority of women wear the wrong size bra!  I am one of those women.  I have been wearing the wrong size for over 20 years! WTF?

I dive full force into this brave new world where most major US lingerie manufacturers do NOT make bras in my size nor do they have a standard.  The days of grabbing a clearance bra for ~$25 are long gone.  The single bra I purchased from Nordstrom (and subsequently returned, unused) was $70! 

SHOPPING FOR NEW BRAS

I turn to online retailers to 1.) actually find a selection of bras to try in my size and 2) pray for a bargain.  In the course of a few months, I was able to purchase a few in my new size and was elated at the fit and comfort!  Not that my old size wasn't uncomfortable back then ~ i never had the issues I hear other women complaining about.  No wires poking, no spillage out the top or gapping, the center gore tacked (sat firmly against breastbone).  It wasn't until I tried on a bra in my CORRECT size for a few days then went back to my old INCORRECTLY sized bra that I felt the difference.  The wires were too small - they sat on my breast tissue and caused "tissue migration" under the arms.  

After a few weeks of wearing the new bras, I noticed the wires felt uncomfortable around the gore at the end of the day.  The wires were higher than I was accustomed to and my girls are set fairly close together so the wires were once again, sitting on breast tissue. My search now has the following (seemingly impossible) criteria: my correct size 32F, extra narrow center gore (usually indicated by OVERLAPPING wire channels) and/or low center gore, and lots of immediate projection at the wire.  Oh, and under $40 would be great!  

SEWING BRAS

Once again, I turn to Google for help.  That is when I stumble up this:

Bra pattern Merckwaerdigh BHST2 sewn by Very Purple Person 

Wait, someone sewed - at home - this gorgeous bra - with overlapping underwire channels?  It clicks.  I can sew.  I know how to read and follow patterns.  Why don't I try making my own?  The cost of purchasing the pattern and a bra sewing kit is STILL less than the cost of a retail priced bra.

And so it begins.  After much deliberation and research, I ordered the Merckewaerdigh Mix 30 Bra and Panty pattern.  From the reviews, it seems this company has really good instructions and quality patterns but also offers instructions on converting to a foam cup online.  I also ordered bra making supplies from ArteCraft.  Can't wait for it all to arrive and start my journey!