Sewing Bras - Designing a New Style Based on a Well Fitting Pattern (aka Block)

Now that the Costume Season (aka Halloween) is over, lingerie sewing has resumed its full course. Yay!

In my pursuit to further my (bra) education, I've decided to try out a new style with different materials.  As I am not quite ready to completely draft my own patterns from scratch, using a well fitting pattern (aka Block) seemed like a step in the right direction.

I really liked this style of bra: integrated powerbar/lower cups with strap tab with small section of lace upper. Add a few minor tweaks to suite my particular preferences (lower center gore and foam lower cups) and its perfect!

[Cleo Lucy, Gorsenia Marlene, and Freya Arabella]

As I already had a great fitting foam bra pattern (my fabulous Comexim copy - details Here), I used it as my block.  Following the directions from the Bra-Makers Manual (Vol 2) by Beverly Johnson, I ended up with this:

Basically taking the curves off, draw new lines then add curves back on. [You can see a bit of this in action on Erin's Blog Here] A quick muslin (just one cup) then basted into my test band, and we were ready to for final adjustments.

Here's the final!  I'm super spiffed.

THE PROCESS

I cut out the lower cup pieces in cut-and-sew foam and identical pieces in my fashion fabric.  The satin-y material is wonderful under fitted clothing. For the upper pieces, I used a stretch lace from Trim Expo during my last foray into the Fashion District (Nice selection, great prices!). Then cut the same pieces in bra tulle for the lining.  Since I wasn't using a pattern with accompanying instructions, I assembled the pieces together in the order that made the most sense to me. Zig zag foam pieces together then sew lower cup fabric pieces together. Baste tulle and lace together, add tiny elastic for neckline, sew combined upper cup piece to combined lower cup pieces.  Sew just the strap tab portion of the fabric to the foam (right sides of fabric to wrong side of foam) then flip open. With wrong side of fabric facing up (and right side of foam), overlap the fabric and foam a few mm and sew INSIDE the seam allowance.  Flip over and top stitch on the cross seam.  Pin down lower edges of fabric to foam and baste.  Finish as usual.

A few minor tweaks to the band - added a gothic arch and doubled up on the power mesh in the back.  Also some adjustments to accommodate the lace on the back band.

THE FIT

I am pleased to report it fits! [with caveats].  Cups fit wonderfully - a little too good as this is definitely a push up bra w/ lots of cleavage.  Since I used the Comexim pattern, the girls are lifted and centered without the help of any additional padding or internal slings!  The gravity defying shape was created by relatively FLAT cups (the cups gain shape when they conform to the underwire) - contrary to everything I've read about bra making thus far.  Immediate projection at the wire is non-existent - this would normally cause major fitting issues for me but not in this time! The bust point of Comexim bra cups tend to be above my bust point (I believe this is by design) and was also perfect for this particular re-design.

THE PROBLEMS

My myopic focus on the cups had caused some oversight on the band.  1.) I had raised the height of the wide wings (for that super sleek silhouette I crave) but had forgotten to raise the back band as well.  Thus the band only has 3 hooks in the back, caused some lumps and bumps. 2.) I had also doubled the powermesh for the back band AND added stretch lace resulting in significantly less stretch.  Thank goodness I had one of those bra extenders handy! 3.) The shorter back band also made the back straps too far apart. Sigh.

Overall I'm very pleased.

Sewing Bras - Copying your favorite/best fitting RTW bra!

As a newbie making their way in the lingerie sewing realm [after sewing a whopping 3 bras], I've decided to try my luck with combining my favorite aspects of 2 different bras info one custom design. The cups on the Comexim (my first Polish bra!) are awesome - they push the girls up and together while still looking "dainty". The extra wide band on the Satami is pretty fabulous as well - providing a smooth silhouette in my back and underarms.  This, endeavor, however will require significant time pattern making.

Although I've been sewing for over 20 years (remember when Home Economics was a class in Junior High?), I've had no formal training in pattern drafting. Most of the pattern drafting I've done is largely with the help of Pinterest and Googling how-to's in Eggs middle of the night. I bring this up because I KNOW you absolutely need a pattern to sew bras AND that pattern HAS. TO. BE. ACCURATE.

I essentially copied the seam lines of the existing bra(s) using pattern paper, smoothed out the lines with a ruler and ensured all the seams lined up correctly and sewed up a bra muslin.  Try on, more adjustments based on bra muslin, rinse and repeat.  My first try sewing up this chimera of a bra was more or less an exact replica of the cups [barring correcting a few mistakes like the cups being too open, not pulling the plush elastic hard enough/evenly enough on the cups, etc] and fit pretty well otherwise.  On my second attempt, I decided to move the apex of the cups to more closely align with mine AS WELL AS moving in the straps 2 cm. This opened up a whole new can of worms requiring more bra toiles.  Nevertheless, take a gander at my newest creation - mistakes and all!

The end result of Round 2!:

One of the best pieces of advice I read about sewing bras is to create a bra toile, however, I recently came across a bit of related advice that I find equally helpful.  Create a bra toile of ONLY the band.  In most cases - especially true if you're fitting yourself - the band will fit fine and/or remain the same.  Its the cup shape/design/size that differs that will require multiple adjustments.  The fitting band should be complete - with elastic, hooks and straps.  That way, you only need to make a toile of the bra cups!  Easier to sew, try on, take apart and repeat as necessary.

Here's a pic from the Merckewaerdigh site:

The Long Awaited Satami Bra Review!

Its here!  Its finally here!  Satami has graciously sent me a few bras to review after I inquired about their bras availability here in the US.

The long awaited bras from Satami and my accompanying review.

Aren't they gorgeous?  We have the Lace Minimizer Soft Cup Bra (2180) in Smoky Black on the left and Non-Wired Sports Bra (2198) in Blue on the right.  

Lace Minimizer Soft Cup Bra (2180)

The Lace Minimizer Soft Cup Bra (2180) has a few misnomers.  First of all, its not a "minimizer" in the traditional (American) sense.   This bra DOES NOT minimize the size or look of breasts in ANY way shape or form.  Its called a Minimizer because of the the overall slimming effect it has on the body (think silhouette) by smoothing out back and/or underarm fat.  More details on that below.  The second misnomer is the "soft cup" - make no mistake, this is an UNDERWIRED bra with lightly lined fabric cups (ie. soft).

DESIGN AND STYLE

Typical to Asian style bras, this plunge bra pushes the girls up and together (even with the padding removed).  One feels supported and *shock* slimmer!  Thanks to the extra wide band, there is ZERO and I mean ZERO back fat, or underarm fat.  The sleek silhouette is addicting.  Its akin to wearing shapewear that also happens to be a bra.  To help keep everything in place is a 4 row, 4 column hook and eye in the back.  The bra also features an ultra low center gores so common in Asian bras (low when compared to Panach or Freya, only 'medium' low within the Satami line) - a haven for us narrow set ladies - and 3/4 cup (aka demi?).  [Need a primer on Asian bras? Check out my first Satami post here.] The straps are fixed and NOT fully adjustable.  For this reason, it may not work for those with tall roots.  [Need a primer on the vocab? Try the ABTF Glossary]  True to design, the 2-ply "Wincool" powernet seems to do the job.  I wore this bra (padding removed) to an Amusement Park on a 90+ degree day and did not feel like the girls were suffocating.  Speaking of which, the padding feels pretty great too - a bit like memory foam but I have not tried wearing them.  The side wings have 2 pieces of boning on each side for extra support - not uncomfortable - they contribute significantly to the support of the band (I learned of their importance first hand during my foray in to sewing my first bra).  Lastly, I do want to mention that while there was no chafing after a full day of wearing this bra (12+ hours) there was a bit of irritation under the arms due to the high side wings.  This is likely due to my higher levels of activity and extra long hours of wearing - it is unlikely for someone to experience this during a typical day at the office.

FIT

My normal size in European brands like Panache or Freya is 32F (sometimes 32E as I'm loosing weight).  In Satami, I wear a 34G.  Per the Satami website, you can go up a cup size for more coverage.  After a few 12+ hour days of wearing this bra, I can say with some confidence that if you are accustomed to wearing Polish bras like Comexim IN YOUR NORMAL BAND SIZE, order your normal band size.  For example, I wear a 70H (equivalent to 32 band) in Comexim but it IS a bit tight and great for days when I'm feeling thin and not bloated.  Basically, first thing in the morning before any type of meal.  I do feel like a 32 band would have sufficed for me BUT I am accustomed to wearing tighter bands and wear tightlacing corsets occasionally.  For most of us though, going up a band size is going to be more comfortable.  The wires are comfortably in my IMF, although pretty high on the sides due to the higher side wings.  Thankfully, the wires are also pretty soft so not uncomfortable.  Center gore tacks nicely and the wide set straps stay put on my sloped shoulders.  As I briefly mentioned before, the straps are NOT fully adjustable and fill likely suffice for those with Short Roots.  Those with tall roots may need to replace the plush elastic portion with a longer section - not a difficult fix if you're handy with needle and thread.  I have short roots and had to "let out" the elastic practically to the max...

CONCLUSION

I really like this bra!  Its pretty comfy despite the higher wires, extra boning and extra wide band.  There was very little (if any) fidgeting while wearing and my silhouette looked awesome.  Girls were up front and center while being supported.  Its the Asian equivalent of the holy grail Polish bras - from the tighter bands, overall shape the cups provide and needing to size up in the cups.  Oh, and it passed the chasing after toddlers, walking up and down the stairs test. =)  Full disclosure though, I'm FoB, not center-full and my breast tissue is still pretty firm. I think these style of bras - low center gore, plunge, shallow-ish cups work REALLY WELL with those whose shape is more shallow or FoB.

Non-Wired Sports Bra (2198)

The Non-Wired Sports Bra is as beautiful as any of their regular bras.  Gorgeous detailing and a 4 hook clasp in the back for ease.  However, the most SURPRISING aspect of this Sports Bra is how pushed up and forward the girls are - all without the help of any boning or wires.  Unlike most wireless bras that are compression based, this bra by some miracle, supports without smooshing the girls against your chest. Like their regular bra line, this sports bra also features a plunge - although not as deep - just enough to glimpse a bit of cleavage. Add this to your rotation for those days at barre class, yoga, power walking or other light exercise.  Its comfortable to wear lounging around the house and the saleswoman at the Personal Touch Store also mentioned its a great sleep bra!

DESIGN AND STYLE

Like Satami's regular bras, the Wireless Sport Bra also features extra wide bands and plunge center.  The bra looks deceivingly shallow until you put it on.  Materials are light and airy but substantial enough to be supportive.  The cup portion of the bra comes up pretty high (as in elastic straps start 1 inch before my shoulder) but not uncomfortable. Unlike the typical wireless sports bras we find in the US, the cups are NOT made of stretchy material designed to compress the girls against your chest.  The cups are made of the same material as their regular bras - thus the feeling of structured support without wires or boning.  Like Satami's other bras, the back features a 4 row - 4 column clasp for ease.  The band is a single layer of powernet to guarantee breathability during those workouts!  

FIT

As mentioned above, my usual size in UK brands is 32F.  Satami sent me a 34E in this style and it still fits comfortably as its sister size to my usual - no need to size up here!  This makes complete sense as Satami uses UK sizing [bit of history here - HK was once a part of the British Empire for those that remember]. 

CONCLUSION

Great bra for lounging around the house, sleeping and light physical activity.  Although I have not worn this one yet, I can easily foresee wearing this around the house, sleeping and/or while pregnant!

Sewing Bras - My First Merckwaerdigh Bra and Panty set!

After much anticipation,  it arrived!  The Highly rated Mix30 Sewing pattern from Dutch designer Merckwaerdigh.

How excited was I that stayed up all night to sew this baby? 

After copying the pattern and adding the seam allowance (European pattern companies don't include them),  I got right to work on the  muslin in a 32E after  sister sizing from 34D. Turns out that we too small - fit was much better is in usual 32F (sister size 36D). I also noticed after my first muslin that this bra provides a more pointy bustline.  So for round 2, I went ahead and rounded it out a bit.

In my excitement to sew up my first Merchwaerdigh, I neglected to notice I didn't have enough channeling for the underwire. Thankfully, that's one of the  lasts steps so I went ahead and ordered the part and continued sewing.

One thing I did to save time was to use the full band from the Maya pattern that already had all my changes (narrow set, wider band, ballet back, etc).

Things to note for next round:
- Move the straps in the back in a bit. The straps in the bra is bit more wide set typical of a balconette. Visually appealing but not so great on my sloped shoulders. Alternatively,  move the straps in 2 cm at the cups or just do away with the  fabric strap section entirely.
- Google when in doubt! (see below)
- Try 4 hook eye closure
- Try wider elastic for band

FIT
Alas, the bra didn't fit.  Cups were slightly too small as I was quadding at the top.  I'm not sure if that was partially due to the fact I used foam instead of the lace as indicated on the pattern (although the Merckwaerdigh blog specified that you can use foam for just about all underwire bra patterns).  More likely though, it due to the fact I tried to "round" out the apex a bit and possibly reduced the projection too much.  Otherwise, the center gore was flat, and the wires were comfortable.  I may try this again in a larger cup size later.

While I was waiting for the shipment to arrive, I decided to start on the matching panty. Cutting went well but when it came to assembling, I couldn't wrap my head around Step One of the instructions. It might have been due to me sewing so late at night or lack of sleep (4am!!) from the night before. I got it stuck in my head that the lace piece needs to lay on top of the back piece and was not comprehending plain English it seems. A graphic of some sort would  have been extremely helpful! They apparently meant for you to lay the lace piece above the back piece - overlapping 1 cm - essentially extending the height of the back. (Thank you Google!) The rest of the  assembly was pretty smooth once that was figured out. Incidentally,  I wasn't the only one who made this same mistake! Tasia from Sewaholic did the exact same thing and her post saved me from pulling my hair out!

Satami Bras - An Introduction!

EDIT 5/30/2017: To include www.satamiusa.com site and review.

In my pursuit to find a bra that fits, I rediscovered an old favorite: bras by Asian Brand, Satami Lingerie.

ABOUT SATAMI

Satami is a Hong Kong based Lingerie Brand that offers bras which have some interesting features.  Many Asian brand bras focus on pushing the girls, up and forward to create the maximum amount of cleavage.  What sets Satami apart is their ultra wide bands and underarm crescents - both designed to smooth out bra induced bulges.  While their range of sizes is not as large as popular European bra companies like Panache or Freya, I have found their bras to be a haven for those with narrow set breasts who usually seek relief with plunge styles or have gone Polish with Comexim or Ewa bras.  Satami bras seem to range from 32A to 44G.  In my limited experience, that 32 band in Satami is closer to a 30 band in UK sizes. More on sizing below.

Their website (https://www.online-satami.com/home) is well designed and has the ability to search by size and style number.  They ship internationally to most of Asia, Europe and North America with the exception of the United States.  Satami has an exclusive distribution agreement with Personal Touch Lingerie in the US so all sales must go through them.  Personal Touch Online Store: www.shopptouch.com.  Please note that the returns/exchanges policy varies between the two sites so please read accordingly.  There is one last option: www.satamiusa.com.  This link seems to be a portal to the Personal Touch site as it states PTL Global at the top of the web page AND the return/exchange policy is the same as Personal Touch.

ONLINE STORES

I found the Personal Touch online store to be utilitarian.  The photos are smaller, fewer and of lower quality.  There is no zoom or the ability to search by bra size.  While there is a drop down menu to filter by size, it didn't pull up the one bra I liked in my size.  I would recommend using the Satami online website to do initial research then jot down the style number.  Use the style number to find the item you want on the the Personal Touch site.  This is also due in part to the fact many of the official bra names are pretty generic. Example Lace Full Cup Bra (2185) is completely different design than Lace Full Cup Bra (2187). Prices seem to be the same as in store.

Satami USA site requires one to create an account before you can view prices AND a passcode (password: shape).  The usability and ease of navigation is almost identical to that of the Satami Online site.  Lots of photos, details, ability to zoom, sort by size, etc.  All styles are available through this site including SALE items! Items on this site seem to be a bit cheaper than the Personal Touch site (between $5 and $11 on the 2 bras I tried on).

The Satami online webstore is pretty great with lots of info, pictures, and the ability to search by size, style and color.  I very much liked their "Personal Shop" - a curated selection of items in your size, style and shape.  To "activate" just click on the "Get Fitted" button at the top right or "Online Bra Fitting" at the very bottom of the Home Page.  They will ask you a series of questions that somewhat mirror our discussions at A Bra That Fits.

Narrow vs Wide Set

Shape. This isn't as extensive as ABTF but is much more detailed than most bra manufacturers!

This was the part I had the most issues with.  

It took some trial and error to get the calculator to "come up" with my correct Satami size.  It took me 4 tries but I got the best results from using my tight underbust measurement with the smallest bust measurement (laying for me) while not on my period/bloated/or nursing.  Measure the upperbust (underarm) according to their instructions.

I am fortunate to live in an area with several Personal Touch Lingerie stores and took a trip especially for you guys!  There have been quite a number of you who are curious about the fit and size conversion from UK sizing.  Officially, Satami uses the UK standard (from their FAQ):

What is your bra sizing standard?

Remember there is no universal standard for bras and bra sizing varies between brands and countries. Whilst we follow UK standard, there may still be little difference

I find using your UK size as a good starting point.  [Don't know your UK bra size? Try this very data oriented bra calculator!]  Due to their extra wide band, Satami bras are ALOT less stretchy than any other brand I've ever tried (US, UK or Polish!).  For example, the 32D bra I bought many moons ago measures 25" in band length but only stretches to 30.5" (full data on Bratabase.com).

BRA SIZE AND FIT

Here's the ultimate testament: I wear 32F/32E in most UK brands (Panache, Freya and Fantasie).  In Satami, I wear 34G.  I attribute sizing up in the cup partially to the lightly lined "padding" in the cups (pocket and side wings, crescents in the cups, etc), the shallow cups due the plunge style and for more coverage.  When I tried on the bra in 34F (up one band, up one cup), the cups were still too small.  Lots of quadding and wrinkles under the cups as it wasn't projected enough at the wire - or at the apex.  For reference, I have wide roots that are narrow set with lots of immediate projection at the wire.  [Need help with the terminology? Try the ABTF Glossary!] So size up in the band for comfort (unless you are accustomed to tightlacing corsets) and increase the cup size by 1 or 2.  This means those of you who wear a 30 band have a fighting chance of fitting the 32 band in Satami!  I should also add that these styles of bras - plunge, low center gore, shallow-ish cups are GREAT for those whose shape are on the shallow side or FoB.

I hope to get my hands on some Satami bras to review (in detail) soon!  In the mean time, check out my experience shopping for Asian bras in store in California at Personal Touch Lingerie!

My Induction to Bra Making

BIT OF BACKGROUND:

Have you heard that statistic about most women in the US are wearing the wrong sized bra?  I know I have and systematically discarded it.  

"That's them" I thought. 

I had been measured by the ladies at Nordstroms and tiny lingerie boutiques - all the same size 32D.  Well, that was before I had kids.  After wearing comfy nursing bras for 4 years, my body has changed enough to warrant new bras.  So off to Nordstroms I went - they promptly sized me at 32DD.  After the initial sticker shock wore off and brought the one bra home, I went online in search of similar bras in my new size.  Stumbled upon the Reddit thread A Bra That Fits.  

Oh My!

The knowledge from that one site turned my world upside down. For starters they needed 5 measurements to calculate your size. They addressed shape, volume, how the girls point, where the girls point, which bras worked with which shapes and why.  SO. MUCH. INFORMATION. Where has this been all my life?  Curious, I measured and entered my stats into their calculator fully expecting it to confirm my 32DD status.  Surely their calculator will be THE most accurate since it requires more data.  My analytical side was kicking in. OMG. HOW WRONG I WAS.  The ABTF calculator put me at 32F/FF.  Wait, what?  I was confident that the calculator would put in at least in the same realm (maybe 1 cup off) as my old size but this was 4 (FOUR!) sizes bigger.  My mind is racing.  I had gained some weight postpartum but the band size remains the same. Could it be possible I only gained weight around my hips and boobs?  Hilarious.  Then it dawns on me.  The majority of women wear the wrong size bra!  I am one of those women.  I have been wearing the wrong size for over 20 years! WTF?

I dive full force into this brave new world where most major US lingerie manufacturers do NOT make bras in my size nor do they have a standard.  The days of grabbing a clearance bra for ~$25 are long gone.  The single bra I purchased from Nordstrom (and subsequently returned, unused) was $70! 

SHOPPING FOR NEW BRAS

I turn to online retailers to 1.) actually find a selection of bras to try in my size and 2) pray for a bargain.  In the course of a few months, I was able to purchase a few in my new size and was elated at the fit and comfort!  Not that my old size wasn't uncomfortable back then ~ i never had the issues I hear other women complaining about.  No wires poking, no spillage out the top or gapping, the center gore tacked (sat firmly against breastbone).  It wasn't until I tried on a bra in my CORRECT size for a few days then went back to my old INCORRECTLY sized bra that I felt the difference.  The wires were too small - they sat on my breast tissue and caused "tissue migration" under the arms.  

After a few weeks of wearing the new bras, I noticed the wires felt uncomfortable around the gore at the end of the day.  The wires were higher than I was accustomed to and my girls are set fairly close together so the wires were once again, sitting on breast tissue. My search now has the following (seemingly impossible) criteria: my correct size 32F, extra narrow center gore (usually indicated by OVERLAPPING wire channels) and/or low center gore, and lots of immediate projection at the wire.  Oh, and under $40 would be great!  

SEWING BRAS

Once again, I turn to Google for help.  That is when I stumble up this:

Bra pattern Merckwaerdigh BHST2 sewn by Very Purple Person 

Wait, someone sewed - at home - this gorgeous bra - with overlapping underwire channels?  It clicks.  I can sew.  I know how to read and follow patterns.  Why don't I try making my own?  The cost of purchasing the pattern and a bra sewing kit is STILL less than the cost of a retail priced bra.

And so it begins.  After much deliberation and research, I ordered the Merckewaerdigh Mix 30 Bra and Panty pattern.  From the reviews, it seems this company has really good instructions and quality patterns but also offers instructions on converting to a foam cup online.  I also ordered bra making supplies from ArteCraft.  Can't wait for it all to arrive and start my journey!