Sewing Bras - Designing a New Style Based on a Well Fitting Pattern (aka Block)

Now that the Costume Season (aka Halloween) is over, lingerie sewing has resumed its full course. Yay!

In my pursuit to further my (bra) education, I've decided to try out a new style with different materials.  As I am not quite ready to completely draft my own patterns from scratch, using a well fitting pattern (aka Block) seemed like a step in the right direction.

I really liked this style of bra: integrated powerbar/lower cups with strap tab with small section of lace upper. Add a few minor tweaks to suite my particular preferences (lower center gore and foam lower cups) and its perfect!

[Cleo Lucy, Gorsenia Marlene, and Freya Arabella]

As I already had a great fitting foam bra pattern (my fabulous Comexim copy - details Here), I used it as my block.  Following the directions from the Bra-Makers Manual (Vol 2) by Beverly Johnson, I ended up with this:

Basically taking the curves off, draw new lines then add curves back on. [You can see a bit of this in action on Erin's Blog Here] A quick muslin (just one cup) then basted into my test band, and we were ready to for final adjustments.

Here's the final!  I'm super spiffed.

THE PROCESS

I cut out the lower cup pieces in cut-and-sew foam and identical pieces in my fashion fabric.  The satin-y material is wonderful under fitted clothing. For the upper pieces, I used a stretch lace from Trim Expo during my last foray into the Fashion District (Nice selection, great prices!). Then cut the same pieces in bra tulle for the lining.  Since I wasn't using a pattern with accompanying instructions, I assembled the pieces together in the order that made the most sense to me. Zig zag foam pieces together then sew lower cup fabric pieces together. Baste tulle and lace together, add tiny elastic for neckline, sew combined upper cup piece to combined lower cup pieces.  Sew just the strap tab portion of the fabric to the foam (right sides of fabric to wrong side of foam) then flip open. With wrong side of fabric facing up (and right side of foam), overlap the fabric and foam a few mm and sew INSIDE the seam allowance.  Flip over and top stitch on the cross seam.  Pin down lower edges of fabric to foam and baste.  Finish as usual.

A few minor tweaks to the band - added a gothic arch and doubled up on the power mesh in the back.  Also some adjustments to accommodate the lace on the back band.

THE FIT

I am pleased to report it fits! [with caveats].  Cups fit wonderfully - a little too good as this is definitely a push up bra w/ lots of cleavage.  Since I used the Comexim pattern, the girls are lifted and centered without the help of any additional padding or internal slings!  The gravity defying shape was created by relatively FLAT cups (the cups gain shape when they conform to the underwire) - contrary to everything I've read about bra making thus far.  Immediate projection at the wire is non-existent - this would normally cause major fitting issues for me but not in this time! The bust point of Comexim bra cups tend to be above my bust point (I believe this is by design) and was also perfect for this particular re-design.

THE PROBLEMS

My myopic focus on the cups had caused some oversight on the band.  1.) I had raised the height of the wide wings (for that super sleek silhouette I crave) but had forgotten to raise the back band as well.  Thus the band only has 3 hooks in the back, caused some lumps and bumps. 2.) I had also doubled the powermesh for the back band AND added stretch lace resulting in significantly less stretch.  Thank goodness I had one of those bra extenders handy! 3.) The shorter back band also made the back straps too far apart. Sigh.

Overall I'm very pleased.

Sewing Bras - Starting with a Underwire Bra Block

Hello again!  Its been a few crazy weeks with the Halloween coming up - which means significantly less time for bra sewing and more time costume sewing!  At any rate, here is a bra I finished just before the rush began.

This is a free pattern from Bra Essentials (available in sizes 30A to 40F).  I initially wanted to try this mostly because it was free (and given the good experience I had with the free Maya pattern) but noticed quite a few things were off.  The bust point seemed to be dead center in the middle of the cup vs toward the center front, upper cup was too tight, wrinkles at the wire etc, etc.  Seemed to be an excessively long list of things to correct.  As I pondered some more (and inquired on the trusty Bra Making Group) it occurred to me that this pattern may be a Underwire Bra Block. Which makes perfect sense as this PDF pattern had zero instructions with it.  Definitely NOT for beginners.

WHAT IS A BLOCK?

According to fashion-incubator.com, they define it as "A block is the pattern of a style" and "promising fit to key dimensions of the average sized consumer" according to the book Innovation and Technology of Women's Intimate Apparel By W Yu, J Fan, S-P Ng, S Harlock.

THE PROCESS

I was inspired by a gorgeous sheer bra with curved lace inset that

ended above the horizontal seams and center set straps (vs the ever popular wide straps). But before I can get to the fun design aspect, I needed to get a proper fit. Given the long list of alterations needed, I was surprised to do everything with the help of a only 5 muslins! Muslin #1 addressed the bust point - it thankfully also took care of a significant number of wrinkles in the cups which likely attributed to the small number of alterations. Muslin #2 and #3 addressed upper cup being too small. Muslin #4 changed the strap attachment shape to better mimic my inspiration bra and a small wrinkle at the wire typical to my body type. Muslin #5 adjusted the strap attachment a smidge more and tried the curved illusion technique using lycra instead of lace - then it was ready for the fashion fabric! Not included were my usual adjustments specific to my shape and preferences: narrow gore at the top and widen at the bottom, increased width of the back back for a smoother silhouette. I also added my very first Gothic Arch along the bottom band!

PROBLEMS ALONG THE WAY

The band sewed up easily along the way - including the gothic arch. I got to do a practice run with my last muslin which definitely helped! Issues began to arise as I was working with the lycra. I had ran out of lace (after my first attempt making this pattern with my good fabrics) and thought I'd give this piece of lycra a go in place of the lace. Well, the lycra behaved differently being sandwiched next to the bra cup netting than my cotton muslin fabric and the finished bra had extra wrinkles from the lycra layer. I was able to hand sew the excess in to the wireline with a bit of effort. Lastly, related to the fabric choice was the thread tension as I sewed the horizontal seam - the seam itself is too tight. Bra fits but seam is more noticeable than it should be.






So here it is with some matching panties! Completely wearable and pretty comfy if I do say so myself. Just don't look too closely. =)