Monday, July 31, 2017

Sewing Bras - Another crack at the Merckwaerdigh Mix 30 bra!

Its done!  The (heavily modified) Merckewaerdigh Mix 30 bra in gorgeous black lace and blue lycra.


Pulled out my old dress form to model my new creation - with the help of some, ahem, enhancements to fill out the bra.



My first attempt using this pattern out of the package didn't go to well and that bra has since been elevated to tester band status. Subsequent attempts to correct said issues yielded much headache due to lack of drafting experience.  See in action below:



Not wanting to just toss it aside, I decided to try to salvage it by redrafting the cups.  It took 5 attempts in muslin before the cups remotely looked like they fit properly. Unfortunately, something was lost in translation when I moved from the muslin to the stretchy cup lining fabric and it became too big. Of course, I didn't discover this until the bra was 90% complete.  After dragging my feet on it for a week or two (and trying a few other small adjustments in hope I didn't have to take the cups apart completely) I finally gave in and redid the cups.

I determined that the outer cups can remain (and should remain) unchanged but the inner cups was drafted in a way where the top of the cups were TOO open (complete opposite of the problem I had the first time!).  So after taking apart the seams, I went ahead and reduced the curvature of the inner cup piece from the apex up.  For the most part, it worked.  Just still a tad too projected for me at the moment (post weaning).  Also the back band is tighter than usual - likely because the blue lycra doesn't have quite as much stretch as the powernet.  It will likely just sit in the drawer.  What does one do with {perfectly good, new} me-made bras that don't fit?  Anyone interested in a giveaway? Approximately 30FF - great for someone who's narrow set, with lots of projection.

 

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