tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-39483951270260340372024-03-05T02:11:20.127-08:00Musings of a Multifarious MommyMommy of 2 boys with an eclectic range of interests: Teacher, Baker, Artist, Sewer, Babywearer, EC-er (Elimination Communication), Eco-Friendly, general DIY-er and now Blogger.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger35125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-353217187169531852022-01-01T10:58:00.005-08:002022-01-01T11:02:35.659-08:00Recipe - Keto Fresh Orange Cranberry Muffin Recipe<p><span style="font-family: arial;">After a VERY long break, we're back! We're re-dedicating this blog to all mommy related things - minus the bra making track. Bra making related makes now has its own dedicated blog.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">We had an overabundance of fresh navel oranges and a need for breakfast items. Remembering that I had once made some yummy Orange Cranberry muffins using a WHOLE orange (skin and all), I decided to pull it out again. This recipe was particularly memorable not because it was delicious but incredibly scary! An entire orange! WITH SKIN!</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">It had been quite a number of years since I've made this recipe but I decided to try to make this keto (as most of my breakfast items are these days). Since I was already making adjustments, I went ahead and dialed back the sugar level and upped the protein.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgn9bpeyxoNXlamoL9kzuUp5U4G2zt-stwFCNk5CMRhLtAITn7o2NlpAXdTshlvNw8gOv4lR33ok0wdvg3RF_cnrqswAhniF86A0j4dKn5JHecuiwDz6KjwcGOGAQyKJoC7EPaP7trVQnX8Kf0ILwvwo9i-czi8jg3o-mgOWWZEXF7C9wC3OmBM0CmNgQ=s1661" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1104" data-original-width="1661" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgn9bpeyxoNXlamoL9kzuUp5U4G2zt-stwFCNk5CMRhLtAITn7o2NlpAXdTshlvNw8gOv4lR33ok0wdvg3RF_cnrqswAhniF86A0j4dKn5JHecuiwDz6KjwcGOGAQyKJoC7EPaP7trVQnX8Kf0ILwvwo9i-czi8jg3o-mgOWWZEXF7C9wC3OmBM0CmNgQ=w640-h426" width="640" /></a></div><h3 class="wprm-recipe-header wprm-recipe-instructions-header wprm-block-text-uppercase wprm-align-left wprm-header-decoration-line wprm-header-has-actions" style="align-items: center; background-color: whitesmoke; box-sizing: border-box; clear: none; color: #212121; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: 1.3em; margin: 1.2em 0px 0.5em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: arial;">KETO FRESH ORANGE CRANBERRY MUFFIN RECIPE</span></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></h3><h3 class="wprm-recipe-header wprm-recipe-instructions-header wprm-block-text-uppercase wprm-align-left wprm-header-decoration-line wprm-header-has-actions" style="align-items: center; background-color: whitesmoke; box-sizing: border-box; clear: none; color: #212121; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; font-size: 1.2em; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 300; line-height: 1.3em; margin: 1.2em 0px 0.5em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">INGREDIENTS</span><div class="wprm-decoration-line" style="border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(224, 224, 224); border-left-color: rgb(224, 224, 224); border-right-color: rgb(224, 224, 224); border-top-color: rgb(224, 224, 224); box-sizing: border-box; flex: 1 1 auto; height: 1px; margin-left: 15px;"></div><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></h3><ul class="wprm-recipe-ingredients" style="background-color: whitesmoke; box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: 0.3px; margin-block: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-inline-start: 0px; padding: 0px;"><li class="wprm-recipe-ingredient" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-amount" style="box-sizing: border-box;">1</span> <span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-name" style="box-sizing: border-box;">LG navel orange</span>, <span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-notes wprm-recipe-ingredient-notes-faded" style="box-sizing: border-box; opacity: 0.7;">about 12 oz / 340 g, preferably organic</span></span></li><li class="wprm-recipe-ingredient" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><span class="wprm-checkbox-container" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline-block; left: -32px; line-height: 0.9em; margin-left: -16px; position: absolute; top: 0.25em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><input aria-label="2 large eggs" class="wprm-checkbox" id="wprm-checkbox-1" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(238, 238, 238); border-radius: 0px; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; color: #323545; font-size: 18px; font-weight: 300; line-height: 1.625; margin: 0px; opacity: 0; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; width: 16px;" type="checkbox" /><label class="wprm-checkbox-label" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline; left: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 26px; position: relative;"><span class="sr-only screen-reader-text wprm-screen-reader-text" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; clip-path: inset(50%); clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow-wrap: normal; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">▢</span></label></span></span><span style="font-family: arial;">4 L<span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-name" style="box-sizing: border-box;">G eggs</span></span></li><li class="wprm-recipe-ingredient" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><span class="wprm-checkbox-container" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline-block; left: -32px; line-height: 0.9em; margin-left: -16px; position: absolute; top: 0.25em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><input aria-label="½ cup Greek yogurt" class="wprm-checkbox" id="wprm-checkbox-2" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(238, 238, 238); border-radius: 0px; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; color: #323545; font-size: 18px; font-weight: 300; line-height: 1.625; margin: 0px; opacity: 0; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; width: 16px;" type="checkbox" /><label class="wprm-checkbox-label" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline; left: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 26px; position: relative;"><span class="sr-only screen-reader-text wprm-screen-reader-text" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; clip-path: inset(50%); clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow-wrap: normal; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">▢</span></label></span></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-amount" style="box-sizing: border-box;">½</span> <span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-unit" style="box-sizing: border-box;">CUP</span> <span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-name" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Greek yogurt</span></span></li><li class="wprm-recipe-ingredient" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><span class="wprm-checkbox-container" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline-block; left: -32px; line-height: 0.9em; margin-left: -16px; position: absolute; top: 0.25em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><input aria-label="¼ cup maple syrup" class="wprm-checkbox" id="wprm-checkbox-3" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(238, 238, 238); border-radius: 0px; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; color: #323545; font-size: 18px; font-weight: 300; line-height: 1.625; margin: 0px; opacity: 0; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; width: 16px;" type="checkbox" /><label class="wprm-checkbox-label" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline; left: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 26px; position: relative;"><span class="sr-only screen-reader-text wprm-screen-reader-text" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; clip-path: inset(50%); clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow-wrap: normal; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">▢</span></label></span></span></li><li class="wprm-recipe-ingredient" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><span class="wprm-checkbox-container" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; display: inline-block; left: -32px; line-height: 0.9em; margin-left: -16px; position: absolute; top: 0.25em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><input aria-label="¼ cup sugar" class="wprm-checkbox" id="wprm-checkbox-4" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(238, 238, 238); border-radius: 0px; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; color: #323545; font-size: 18px; font-weight: 300; line-height: 1.625; margin: 0px; opacity: 0; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; width: 16px;" type="checkbox" /><label class="wprm-checkbox-label" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline; left: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 26px; position: relative;"><span class="sr-only screen-reader-text wprm-screen-reader-text" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; clip-path: inset(50%); clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow-wrap: normal; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">▢</span></label></span></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-amount" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;">¼</span><span style="color: #333333;"> </span><span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-unit" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;">CUP</span><span style="color: #333333;"> </span><span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-name" style="box-sizing: border-box;"><span style="color: #333333;">sugar </span><span style="color: #999999;">(we like Lakanto Monkfruit Sweetener)</span></span></span></li><li class="wprm-recipe-ingredient" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><span class="wprm-checkbox-container" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline-block; left: -32px; line-height: 0.9em; margin-left: -16px; position: absolute; top: 0.25em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><input aria-label="1 tsp almond extract" class="wprm-checkbox" id="wprm-checkbox-5" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(238, 238, 238); border-radius: 0px; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; color: #323545; font-size: 18px; font-weight: 300; line-height: 1.625; margin: 0px; opacity: 0; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; width: 16px;" type="checkbox" /><label class="wprm-checkbox-label" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline; left: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 26px; position: relative;"><span class="sr-only screen-reader-text wprm-screen-reader-text" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; clip-path: inset(50%); clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow-wrap: normal; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">▢</span></label></span></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-amount" style="box-sizing: border-box;">1</span> <span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-unit" style="box-sizing: border-box;">TSP</span> <span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-name" style="box-sizing: border-box;">almond extract</span></span></li><li class="wprm-recipe-ingredient" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><span class="wprm-checkbox-container" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline-block; left: -32px; line-height: 0.9em; margin-left: -16px; position: absolute; top: 0.25em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><input aria-label="1⅔ cup all purpose flour" class="wprm-checkbox" id="wprm-checkbox-6" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(238, 238, 238); border-radius: 0px; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; color: #323545; font-size: 18px; font-weight: 300; line-height: 1.625; margin: 0px; opacity: 0; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; width: 16px;" type="checkbox" /><label class="wprm-checkbox-label" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline; left: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 26px; position: relative;"><span class="sr-only screen-reader-text wprm-screen-reader-text" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; clip-path: inset(50%); clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow-wrap: normal; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">▢</span></label></span></span><span style="font-family: arial;">6<span style="letter-spacing: 0.3px;">½</span> TBS coconut<span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-name" style="box-sizing: border-box;"> flour</span></span></li><li class="wprm-recipe-ingredient" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-name" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-family: arial;"><span style="color: #333333;">5 TBS almond flour </span><span style="color: #999999;">(a bit more if you like a denser muffin)</span></span></li><li class="wprm-recipe-ingredient" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><span style="font-family: arial;">4 TBS Protein Powder <span style="color: #999999;">(we like Standard Process Vanilla)</span></span></li><li class="wprm-recipe-ingredient" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><span class="wprm-checkbox-container" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline-block; left: -32px; line-height: 0.9em; margin-left: -16px; position: absolute; top: 0.25em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><input aria-label="½ tbsp baking powder" class="wprm-checkbox" id="wprm-checkbox-7" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(238, 238, 238); border-radius: 0px; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; color: #323545; font-size: 18px; font-weight: 300; line-height: 1.625; margin: 0px; opacity: 0; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; width: 16px;" type="checkbox" /><label class="wprm-checkbox-label" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline; left: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 26px; position: relative;"><span class="sr-only screen-reader-text wprm-screen-reader-text" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; clip-path: inset(50%); clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow-wrap: normal; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">▢</span></label></span></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-amount" style="box-sizing: border-box;">½</span> TBS <span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-name" style="box-sizing: border-box;">baking powder</span></span></li><li class="wprm-recipe-ingredient" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><span class="wprm-checkbox-container" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline-block; left: -32px; line-height: 0.9em; margin-left: -16px; position: absolute; top: 0.25em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><input aria-label="½ tsp baking soda" class="wprm-checkbox" id="wprm-checkbox-8" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(238, 238, 238); border-radius: 0px; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; color: #323545; font-size: 18px; font-weight: 300; line-height: 1.625; margin: 0px; opacity: 0; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; width: 16px;" type="checkbox" /><label class="wprm-checkbox-label" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline; left: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 26px; position: relative;"><span class="sr-only screen-reader-text wprm-screen-reader-text" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; clip-path: inset(50%); clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow-wrap: normal; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">▢</span></label></span></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-amount" style="box-sizing: border-box;">½</span> T<span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-unit" style="box-sizing: border-box;">SP</span> <span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-name" style="box-sizing: border-box;">baking soda</span></span></li><li class="wprm-recipe-ingredient" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><span class="wprm-checkbox-container" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline-block; left: -32px; line-height: 0.9em; margin-left: -16px; position: absolute; top: 0.25em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><input aria-label="pinch of salt" class="wprm-checkbox" id="wprm-checkbox-9" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(238, 238, 238); border-radius: 0px; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; color: #323545; font-size: 18px; font-weight: 300; line-height: 1.625; margin: 0px; opacity: 0; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; width: 16px;" type="checkbox" /><label class="wprm-checkbox-label" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline; left: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 26px; position: relative;"><span class="sr-only screen-reader-text wprm-screen-reader-text" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; clip-path: inset(50%); clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow-wrap: normal; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">▢</span></label></span></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-unit" style="box-sizing: border-box;">pinch</span> <span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-name" style="box-sizing: border-box;">of salt</span></span></li><li class="wprm-recipe-ingredient" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><span class="wprm-checkbox-container" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline-block; left: -32px; line-height: 0.9em; margin-left: -16px; position: absolute; top: 0.25em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><input aria-label="⅓ cup dried cranberry, roughly chopped" class="wprm-checkbox" id="wprm-checkbox-10" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(238, 238, 238); border-radius: 0px; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; color: #323545; font-size: 18px; font-weight: 300; line-height: 1.625; margin: 0px; opacity: 0; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; width: 16px;" type="checkbox" /><label class="wprm-checkbox-label" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline; left: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 26px; position: relative;"><span class="sr-only screen-reader-text wprm-screen-reader-text" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; clip-path: inset(50%); clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow-wrap: normal; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">▢</span></label></span></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.3px;">½</span> <span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-unit" style="box-sizing: border-box;">cup</span> <span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-name" style="box-sizing: border-box;">dried cranberry</span>, <span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-notes wprm-recipe-ingredient-notes-faded" style="box-sizing: border-box; opacity: 0.7;">roughly chopped</span></span></li><li class="wprm-recipe-ingredient" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><span class="wprm-checkbox-container" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline-block; left: -32px; line-height: 0.9em; margin-left: -16px; position: absolute; top: 0.25em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><input aria-label="4 tbsp unsalted butter, melted" class="wprm-checkbox" id="wprm-checkbox-11" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(238, 238, 238); border-radius: 0px; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; color: #323545; font-size: 18px; font-weight: 300; line-height: 1.625; margin: 0px; opacity: 0; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; width: 16px;" type="checkbox" /><label class="wprm-checkbox-label" style="box-sizing: border-box; display: inline; left: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 26px; position: relative;"><span class="sr-only screen-reader-text wprm-screen-reader-text" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; clip-path: inset(50%); clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow-wrap: normal; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">▢</span></label></span></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-amount" style="box-sizing: border-box;">4</span> <span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-unit" style="box-sizing: border-box;">TBSP</span> <span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-name" style="box-sizing: border-box;">coconut oil</span>, <span class="wprm-recipe-ingredient-notes wprm-recipe-ingredient-notes-faded" style="box-sizing: border-box; opacity: 0.7;">melted</span></span></li></ul><div><h3 class="wprm-recipe-header wprm-recipe-instructions-header wprm-block-text-uppercase wprm-align-left wprm-header-decoration-line wprm-header-has-actions" style="align-items: center; background-color: whitesmoke; box-sizing: border-box; clear: none; color: #212121; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; font-size: 1.2em; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 300; line-height: 1.3em; margin: 1.2em 0px 0.5em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">INSTRUCTIONS</span><div class="wprm-decoration-line" style="border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(224, 224, 224); border-left-color: rgb(224, 224, 224); border-right-color: rgb(224, 224, 224); border-top-color: rgb(224, 224, 224); box-sizing: border-box; flex: 1 1 auto; height: 1px; margin-left: 15px;"></div><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></h3><div class="wprm-recipe-instruction-group" style="background-color: whitesmoke; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: 0.3px;"><ul class="wprm-recipe-instructions" style="box-sizing: border-box; margin-block: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-inline-start: 0px; padding: 0px;"><li class="wprm-recipe-instruction" id="wprm-recipe-1441-step-0-0" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: decimal; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><div class="wprm-recipe-instruction-text" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; margin-bottom: 5px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C)</span></div></li><li class="wprm-recipe-instruction" id="wprm-recipe-1441-step-0-1" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: decimal; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><div class="wprm-recipe-instruction-text" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; margin-bottom: 5px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Wash orange and trim of about 1⁄2 inch (1.2 cm) off two ends.</span></div></li><li class="wprm-recipe-instruction" id="wprm-recipe-1441-step-0-2" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: decimal; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><div class="wprm-recipe-instruction-text" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; margin-bottom: 5px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Cut the orange into 8 pieces (remove any seeds) and put in the blender.</span></div></li><li class="wprm-recipe-instruction" id="wprm-recipe-1441-step-0-3" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: decimal; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><div class="wprm-recipe-instruction-text" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; margin-bottom: 5px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Add eggs, Greek yogurt, maple syrup, sugar and almond extract in the blender and blend until smooth.</span></div></li><li class="wprm-recipe-instruction" id="wprm-recipe-1441-step-0-4" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: decimal; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><div class="wprm-recipe-instruction-text" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; margin-bottom: 5px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt together in a mixing bowl.</span></div></li><li class="wprm-recipe-instruction" id="wprm-recipe-1441-step-0-5" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: decimal; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><div class="wprm-recipe-instruction-text" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; margin-bottom: 5px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and mix. No need to baby it as there's no flour and no gluten to develop.</span></div></li><li class="wprm-recipe-instruction" id="wprm-recipe-1441-step-0-6" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: decimal; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><div class="wprm-recipe-instruction-text" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; margin-bottom: 5px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Add dried cranberries (save a small handful for sprinkling on top) and melted butter in the mixing bowl and fold in with a spatula.</span></div></li><li class="wprm-recipe-instruction" id="wprm-recipe-1441-step-0-7" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: decimal; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><div class="wprm-recipe-instruction-text" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; margin-bottom: 5px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Divide the batter into 24 mini muffin cups, top with cranberry (if desired) and bake for 12-15 minutes until a toothpick comes out clean.</span></div></li><li class="wprm-recipe-instruction" id="wprm-recipe-1441-step-0-8" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; list-style-position: outside; list-style-type: decimal; margin: 0px 0px 0px 32px; padding: 0px; position: relative;"><div class="wprm-recipe-instruction-text" style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 1em; margin-bottom: 5px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Wait for 3 minutes and move the muffins to a cooling rack, let it cool for 10 minutes before eating.</span></div></li></ul></div></div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh7jpLU5ILyg55vavYMIqGry_wTg7gGLfkGN9ZwfuzXIBMXfzUcPiQHQBbYXme10zyMPpeVvelbVGaFXZ26wpjivBqrjergCAmn0sLd_oTnI3s0h9gaR9SVuSdYtURQwDAEJXRMln3ky7HJwShTo0TPFuynxTnRq_wYR0UIxRn2zXECE-3iMJjCxdOCYQ=s1648" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1095" data-original-width="1648" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh7jpLU5ILyg55vavYMIqGry_wTg7gGLfkGN9ZwfuzXIBMXfzUcPiQHQBbYXme10zyMPpeVvelbVGaFXZ26wpjivBqrjergCAmn0sLd_oTnI3s0h9gaR9SVuSdYtURQwDAEJXRMln3ky7HJwShTo0TPFuynxTnRq_wYR0UIxRn2zXECE-3iMJjCxdOCYQ=w640-h426" width="640" /></a></div><span style="color: #333333; font-family: PT Serif;"><span style="font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: 0.3px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: 0.3px;">This makes a very light and fluffy muffin with plenty of sweetness and orange flavor. We make quite a few keto friendly baked goods and this was on where the kids asked for more.</span></span></div><div><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: 0.3px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: 0.3px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: 0.3px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: 0.3px;">Here is the original recipe: https://cookinginchinglish.com/orange-muffin/</span></span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-85921538600711408402018-02-01T21:27:00.001-08:002018-02-01T21:27:24.431-08:00Sewing Bras - Lace Shelley Bra - aka Bra Seam Manipulation<header class="entry-header" id="yui_3_17_2_7_1517547897362_1274" style="background-color: white; color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.7); font-size: 18px; margin-bottom: 36px;"><div style="color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.9); font-size: 32px; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 1.2em; margin: 12px 0px; text-rendering: optimizeLegibility;">
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<div class="sqs-layout sqs-grid-12 columns-12" data-layout-label="Post Body" data-type="item" data-updated-on="1517532932288" id="item-5a73b6708165f53e52e6cb61">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Its been a while since I've sewn up a regular underwire bra (2+ months!) while I've been focusing on the Strapless debacle - which lead to learning to draft a bra from scratch (multiple times!). [Check out my strapless bra adventures <a href="https://lilypadesigns.squarespace.com/blog?tag=Strapless" style="background: transparent; color: #3d9991; text-decoration-line: none; word-wrap: break-word;">HERE</a>].</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now that that major project has finished, I wanted something a bit simpler to work on. Utilizing my new skills, I decided to turn my PUG Classic into the PUG Shelley Bra! The drafting should be pretty simple - create a power bar out of the upper and lower cup pieces and then split the remaining lower cup. Creating the power bar has the same steps as creating the internal power bar I talked about in a previous post. [see <a href="https://lilypadesigns.squarespace.com/blog?category=Tutorial" style="background: transparent; color: #3d9991; text-decoration-line: none; word-wrap: break-word;">HERE</a>] And splitting the lower cup is a fairly common alteration with a number of tutorials on the interwebs. [like <a href="https://braandcorsetsupplies.com/2014/03/22/splitting-the-lower-cup/" style="background: transparent; color: #3d9991; text-decoration-line: none; word-wrap: break-word;">HERE</a> and <a href="http://www.bramakingblog.com/bra-making-basics-how-to-split-a-lower-cup/" style="background: transparent; color: #3d9991; text-decoration-line: none; word-wrap: break-word;">HERE</a>]. What will be new is making this bra almost entirely of lace!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I really like the delicate look of this bra. It is such a nice contrast to the VERY structured strapless bra I spent the last few months on. Working with lace came with its own trials and tribulations but sooo very worth it in the end.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ALTERATIONS TO PATTERN</span></div>
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<li style="word-wrap: break-word;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Manipulated seam lines on the Pin Up Girls Classic bra to mimic the Pin Up Girls Shelley bra</span></li>
<li style="word-wrap: break-word;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Raised the side wings roughly 1/2" and tapered down towards back band.</span></li>
<li style="word-wrap: break-word;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Used alternate straps that calls for fabric to be folded down the center.</span></li>
<li style="word-wrap: break-word;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Manipulated the cradle to accomodate the lace</span></li>
<li style="word-wrap: break-word;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Inserted Gothic Arch</span></li>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">FOR NEXT ROUND</span></div>
<ul style="word-wrap: break-word;">
<li style="word-wrap: break-word;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Widen the powerbar near the lower cup a bit. Roughly 3/4 - 1". Repeat for internal powerbar.</span></li>
<li style="word-wrap: break-word;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Lengthen the folded straps and remove the seam allowance along the neckline. If using heavy duty upholstery interfacing again next time, use only a SINGLE layer. The strap ended up quite thick at the attachment point. Or perhaps try padded straps again.</span></li>
<li style="word-wrap: break-word;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Take a TINY 1/8" sliver off along the wireline for the inner lower cup pattern piece.</span></li>
</ul>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The fit is wonderful. The cups are slightly more rounded (due to the extra seams) than the original. It's my best fitting PUG Classic/Shelley bra yet! This mostly stems from me *actually* applying my (newly acquired) knowledge of bra fitting to myself than the lace or construction. Although according to the wire chart, I should be using the bridge from TWO sizes up from what I had been using. I compromised by only going up ONE size (which also happens to coincide with my RTW size). The only thing I will add is that changing the cradle, while more comfortable, gave me a more natural look where the girls are not set as close together. So neither pushed together, or facing East/West but perfectly parallell.</span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-52472512727308218552018-01-25T13:40:00.002-08:002018-01-25T14:02:16.266-08:00Sewing Bras - Custom Drafting a Strapless Bra Part 3Welcome to part 3 of my custom draft strapless bra! [Check out Parts 1 <a href="https://multifariousmommy.blogspot.com/2018/01/sewing-bras-custom-drafting-strapless.html">HERE</a> and Part 2 <a href="https://multifariousmommy.blogspot.com/2018/01/sewing-bras-custom-drafting-strapless_12.html">HERE</a>]<br />
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IT IS DONE!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqeFfYuhRGmX8oP-wT69_xdetsw12sGs_5lmZ0dkmiZAFSnYOoqqZFNmxc5gaOqgl-J_FjKMFZSqHmxuGAD_k80RcNWpL0nEXhF9J9ARjFyxnJk4zwxkPXKG3mx2ostHXqge0EYRh4YJuk/s1600/DSC05423.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1216" data-original-width="1600" height="486" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqeFfYuhRGmX8oP-wT69_xdetsw12sGs_5lmZ0dkmiZAFSnYOoqqZFNmxc5gaOqgl-J_FjKMFZSqHmxuGAD_k80RcNWpL0nEXhF9J9ARjFyxnJk4zwxkPXKG3mx2ostHXqge0EYRh4YJuk/s640/DSC05423.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Feels sooo good to have finally finished it. Well, mostly finished - I'm still waiting on some more black hook and eye tape but the white I put in temporarily will suffice for now.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjDRJlmv1NpmbdLwzFtj6Fjm8B_oFHeuil0PegaKyhQqCATvxi3fTACXevPrga9A3iS4wkR4LPRXdKBBcOgP1mBFBBxoqZcpi0TteezECK_tt9IiBjK1PiLZTy7ONryLKzeVIFeX4qpGM/s1600/DSC05421.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1064" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjDRJlmv1NpmbdLwzFtj6Fjm8B_oFHeuil0PegaKyhQqCATvxi3fTACXevPrga9A3iS4wkR4LPRXdKBBcOgP1mBFBBxoqZcpi0TteezECK_tt9IiBjK1PiLZTy7ONryLKzeVIFeX4qpGM/s640/DSC05421.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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The color combo didn't <i>quite</i> turn out as I had hoped but is fine for a serviceable strapless bra.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTr_F7FcAah-UfccZMQgaHkHVIkq5R3fjjXVN7_I8yQdqRYCQmAeEZFNcAazMn9ydaRm8WiFtpoStu2Ru9Ukp6b2IF9xcfdsZ1vhEoVjML_IhyphenhyphencR_rbHBtK4R0qeOprF07_yQlYNO_cqrz/s1600/DSC05425.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1362" data-original-width="1600" height="544" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTr_F7FcAah-UfccZMQgaHkHVIkq5R3fjjXVN7_I8yQdqRYCQmAeEZFNcAazMn9ydaRm8WiFtpoStu2Ru9Ukp6b2IF9xcfdsZ1vhEoVjML_IhyphenhyphencR_rbHBtK4R0qeOprF07_yQlYNO_cqrz/s640/DSC05425.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Check out that lace! I wanted some continuity between the front purple section and the back black powernet. Stretch lace placed on the diagonal did the trick!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9v-dVs43o2K0zYT3hCPNqGxWvFh5kH52Fs-eU4AL_S5N6paU8JWh6tOkS9acoubDVrmbnOS2O9tVR-eFatW3HsY8D8Hq7DNglDP8xl-XRu1Pq8TfKg3r8YjoVsRPROdelyMJj2vPiHc45/s1600/DSC_0374.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9v-dVs43o2K0zYT3hCPNqGxWvFh5kH52Fs-eU4AL_S5N6paU8JWh6tOkS9acoubDVrmbnOS2O9tVR-eFatW3HsY8D8Hq7DNglDP8xl-XRu1Pq8TfKg3r8YjoVsRPROdelyMJj2vPiHc45/s320/DSC_0374.JPG" width="320" /></a>This bra was definitely a labor of love. There were challenges and quite a few firsts all around. This bra features 4 bones in the band and 4 bones in the cups. I added self made cookie inserts and sewed them to the cup in a free floating fashion. The cups themselves had dual layers of foam - to ensure a smooth exterior despite all the boning. I also had to shorten the U shaped or Strapless underwires a smidge (1/4") at center front to make it fit. Band feels a bit loose to me and more secure on the tightest set of hooks. Silicone elastic across the top of the back band would have helped immensely (I had 3/4" regular plush elastic or 1/2" silicon - I erred on the 3/4").<br />
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LESSONS LEARNED<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUVMhfVhxeOLPATSl8aIqr2nO7VTGLl9E9XahSpUR4XwzufKPuQ_H3nQoWD2rC1MFc-F4m3IArbX6UHLzfCIkgSkSW0UdvWvSRGH2c_XqKhf4z-_FlIcz0G7AvcQ49mdorGBoUbdLRFgFA/s1600/DSC_0375.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUVMhfVhxeOLPATSl8aIqr2nO7VTGLl9E9XahSpUR4XwzufKPuQ_H3nQoWD2rC1MFc-F4m3IArbX6UHLzfCIkgSkSW0UdvWvSRGH2c_XqKhf4z-_FlIcz0G7AvcQ49mdorGBoUbdLRFgFA/s320/DSC_0375.JPG" width="320" /></a>- If adding cookie inserts, make them removable next time. If for no other reason than to avoid sewing through 4-5 layers of bra foam.<br />
- If adding inserts for more push up, lower the height of the upper cup (even more). Possibly curving it a bit higher towards the arm pit. Current cups + 4 layers of foam (4 for the inserts and 2 for the cup) = slight quadding. Zero quadding without the inserts.<br />
- Consider adding another set of boning in the back band over the powernet. This will likely need to use channeling to allow the bones some movement. Previous experience sewing boning on powenet was less than spectacular.<br />
- Consider reinforcing the top edge of foam cup with tricot or similar non-stretch material - hopefully this will help resolve the rolled edge issue.<br />
- Use higher quality plush elastic or just FIRM plush elastic as quite a bit of the support comes from the band.<br />
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POSSIBLE EXPERIMENTS FOR NEXT ROUND<br />
- Shorten the u-shaped wires even more (evenly on both ends AND/OR shorter in center front). Maybe another 1/4" off each end?<br />
- 1/2" Silicon backed plush elastic. The concern with this one is the difference in elasticity. I've found I need a fairly firm elastic for the upper band elastic to spring the wires correctly.<br />
- Possibly shorten the back band 1/2" to account for the extra stretchy plush elastic (I bought 50 yards of this stuff that stretches almost 100%!!)<br />
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Overall, I'm very pleased with how this turned out! Fit is pretty darn good if I do say so myself. My issues at this point are all very minor. Hooray!<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-17903940101370804712018-01-22T22:00:00.001-08:002018-01-25T11:40:56.668-08:00Tutorial - How to Create and Insert a Bra SlingWelcome to my first tutorial! (pic heavy)<br />
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After hailing the wonders that is a bra sling, I received a number of requests to for a tutorial. For those who are not familiar with a sling, it is a separate piece of fabric on the interior (or exterior) of the bra to aid in support. Sometimes called a side sling and look similar to powerbars. Here is a VERY comprehensive series of posts on power bars, internal slings and external slings [link <a href="http://www.silverliningatelier.com/all-about-power-bars-iv-drafting-and-sewing-the-seamed-power-bar/">HERE</a>] by Silver Lining Atelier.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2kUm0FHYeRbcc-mp0ziwaYD3hCtjBGFSiKw8FYSxrXRr5VccIAXGLi4rZTdFv2Q5MV7eA4tBtAiarrlofUF7Ujm6Uda87BQgNb-7qN_D0wjsbspr0fMVpI4zUtE4xuqfkRJl5hn7uS3by/s1600/Bra+Sling+Tutorial.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="647" data-original-width="923" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2kUm0FHYeRbcc-mp0ziwaYD3hCtjBGFSiKw8FYSxrXRr5VccIAXGLi4rZTdFv2Q5MV7eA4tBtAiarrlofUF7Ujm6Uda87BQgNb-7qN_D0wjsbspr0fMVpI4zUtE4xuqfkRJl5hn7uS3by/s640/Bra+Sling+Tutorial.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">(From L to R) </span><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Satami Lace Bra 2196 non-stretch sling sandwiched in cotton knit and Panache Andorra non-stretch sling.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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In today's tutorial we will be adding internal slings to the very popular Watson wireless bra pattern by Cloth Habit. I highly suggest this modification if 1.) you are of a larger bust and still want support in a wireless bra and/or 2.) your girls are a bit saggy and need some additional vertical assistance and/or 3.) your bust point tends to face east/west and you would like them more centered.<br />
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You will need the 2 cup pieces to begin. Draw a line 1/4" away from the edge - this will indicate the seam or sewing line. I've drawn short dotted lines in red.<br />
***[Ignore the other lines - this is my modified version of the Watson where I've moved the cup seam more toward the Center Front and raised the height of the side wings.]<br />
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Now stack one piece on top of the other aligning the seam line. You need to eliminate the seam line as we will be making our sling in one piece.<br />
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Tape them together.</div>
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Here's the fun part - deciding what you would like the sling to accomplish. There is ONE main rule to keep in mind here - avoid the apex of the cup. Not only can it be uncomfortable having a free floating piece of fabric so close to a sensitive area, it is also more likely to be seen from the outside of the bra.<br />
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I'm using one of my corset bones to indicate where you would like the internal edge of the sling to end.<br />
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This version pushes the breast tissue toward center front and is the version used in the Panache Andorra.<br />
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This version pushes the breast tissue up and is sometimes used in wired sports bras.<br />
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This version pushes the breast tissue both up AND forward.<br />
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Once you've decided what shape (and function) your sling will take, draw your line (as indicated by the corset bone) and trace.<br />
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Add a line to indicate direction of greatest stretch (DOGS). It should be perpendicular to your straight line. You want there to be almost NO stretch along your straight line as that's what provides the support.<br />
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Last step would be to decide what material to use in your bra sling. Both RTW examples in the title photo utilize non-stretch fabric, but I have personally also seen bra foam (regular 1/8" poly laminate foam covered in stretch knit placed on fold) and powerknit/powernet on the fold.<br />
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Today's example uses firm powernet (45% stretch doubled => 30% stretch). One of the reasons I used powernet this time instead of the Simplex (like I've done in the past) is due to proximity to the bust point (see photo above) and my desire to for the sling to be as invisible as possible. The knit used in today's tutorial is VERY soft and such a drastic difference between stretch percentages would likely be obvious.<br />
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Cut out your new internal sling and attach to your cups PRIOR to sewing into cradle. Complete the remainder of the steps as usual.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiakfxCLh6-fg03BRmOyi1e6HmeXrpFadJZ35SmmAE26-Kw1WXbOys-XwD0sQF_4bW11dnsOQFi6bG3VewdBH9gx8UYtsNJbGKpfABKcZ3fEhRvjXTjqXPWKjKUdIj9iUUqXp1THFutEHv/s1600/DSC05415.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1064" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiakfxCLh6-fg03BRmOyi1e6HmeXrpFadJZ35SmmAE26-Kw1WXbOys-XwD0sQF_4bW11dnsOQFi6bG3VewdBH9gx8UYtsNJbGKpfABKcZ3fEhRvjXTjqXPWKjKUdIj9iUUqXp1THFutEHv/s640/DSC05415.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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OPTIONAL: You can also use the same internal sling pattern for a lace external sling! The straight edge works really well along the lowest point of scalloped lace.<br />
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And here's the finished piece!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNHfL9si5widPbUkC0Qt1xiilFJ9UxMFQK6l1d5dE87pUSyDthSlP7REK8Pqyhtj0XBuHtmbBv6e3w2bBiO95tiV6_r6b7HOOiwUuDKBMhrZriyTwHeYIkOqAXBBNoc1qw1oc4FY72IzL6/s1600/DSC05441.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1330" data-original-width="1600" height="532" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNHfL9si5widPbUkC0Qt1xiilFJ9UxMFQK6l1d5dE87pUSyDthSlP7REK8Pqyhtj0XBuHtmbBv6e3w2bBiO95tiV6_r6b7HOOiwUuDKBMhrZriyTwHeYIkOqAXBBNoc1qw1oc4FY72IzL6/s640/DSC05441.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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A few pics of the finished interior. The bra channeling is optional as this is wireless (although a short rocker wire also worked well for me!). I added it for a cleaner look.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiytZG05l77lck9pdrH-LygPnUHXwdxUNu-nPzeMXKVUBSZSGbJ50UWxXweM1adloYpH21G8ShjgNciwGyXy0rK1vmkROeeLqfviEl5vf9ERj8J4YVln897Dir1prS_Ei4xctuTl3jKY36t/s1600/DSC05446.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1064" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiytZG05l77lck9pdrH-LygPnUHXwdxUNu-nPzeMXKVUBSZSGbJ50UWxXweM1adloYpH21G8ShjgNciwGyXy0rK1vmkROeeLqfviEl5vf9ERj8J4YVln897Dir1prS_Ei4xctuTl3jKY36t/s640/DSC05446.png" width="640" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFXaDXWLKeO_pX8nyR4wdBiCHw3RwP2VHveeVEKcL81MQAPSl8840wJOEUd2Wrlt2Q3ApnAhdYlyGRjVLK_0jTPI1yKwsCS10wEmWXD87jhOsHBRBO86t8cH-EddgqWaJlgf3Pw-Y7LP76/s1600/DSC05445.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1064" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFXaDXWLKeO_pX8nyR4wdBiCHw3RwP2VHveeVEKcL81MQAPSl8840wJOEUd2Wrlt2Q3ApnAhdYlyGRjVLK_0jTPI1yKwsCS10wEmWXD87jhOsHBRBO86t8cH-EddgqWaJlgf3Pw-Y7LP76/s640/DSC05445.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrRRlmZ46LjKAC2fZn7mQ324hkhdzsYaWW-s8rqkNaP3A1wgKnA2H3uKr9a1jtCSB3VvFC9-ooF0pjdk24E76a5_5thL-VlCKWsXcFx0jfdutncv0QP5Jp5-ey7mqmijwUYxW5pnwKXWP6/s1600/DSC05447.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrRRlmZ46LjKAC2fZn7mQ324hkhdzsYaWW-s8rqkNaP3A1wgKnA2H3uKr9a1jtCSB3VvFC9-ooF0pjdk24E76a5_5thL-VlCKWsXcFx0jfdutncv0QP5Jp5-ey7mqmijwUYxW5pnwKXWP6/s1600/DSC05447.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1064" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrRRlmZ46LjKAC2fZn7mQ324hkhdzsYaWW-s8rqkNaP3A1wgKnA2H3uKr9a1jtCSB3VvFC9-ooF0pjdk24E76a5_5thL-VlCKWsXcFx0jfdutncv0QP5Jp5-ey7mqmijwUYxW5pnwKXWP6/s640/DSC05447.png" width="640" /></a><br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-48706618201932890242018-01-12T23:31:00.000-08:002018-01-12T23:40:28.680-08:00Sewing Bras - Custom Drafting a Strapless Bra Part 2<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A quick update on my Strapless Bra drafting adventures.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Since my last post, my fitting problems were as follows:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">#6 - cups are no longer pointy but tilt downward toward the armpit despite ensuring marks on the cup lined up with the marks on the cradle. Needs to be taken in a smidge at the cross seam near center front.<br /><br />#7 - bra band is ridiculously huge. It measured 30" unstretched - and that included a 12.5% negative ease for the elastic (which incidentally, I apparently pickup that percentage out of nowhere)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I had finished redrafting the bra band to better suit my tastes last round. The fit is significantly better with 2 caveats. 1) The elastic I am using is much too stretchy despite being 3/4"! It stretches 100% easily. 2) The single layer of powernet may not be enough for what I am looking for. Will entertain doubling the powernet.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">#8 - tilting the cups within the frame too see if it would be enough to off set the odd angle. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The cups pointing downward (like a sad puppy) was quite vexing. After a good night's sleep, I tried on the bra again and noticed a few things I didn't previously. The bridge was too wide near the top and too narrow near the bottom. AHA! I had forgotten about the ONE alteration I always make to bra patterns as it is a necessity in order for the bridge to fit properly. Goodness I felt silly.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">#9 - took in the center gore at the correct angle for my typical adjustment.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">AAAAND. Still sad puppy cups. I had to step away for the rest of the day. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">During my break from sewing, I got to thinking about Natasha's Underwire Theory [link <a href="http://www.bramakingblog.com/underwire-theory-finding-the-balance-point-of-a-wire/">HERE</a>] on her blog. Specifically she talks about the importance of accounting for wire spring when drafting. While she doesn't walk you through all the steps of how to draft the bra bridge, the focus on wire spring included a different way to account for it as well as thorough explanations that I found extremely helpful. The most important lines I found was this:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">"...<span style="font-size: 14px;"> </span>a wire should be sprung 15mm and while this seems to be commonly repeated I have found through further education and experience that 15mm is not necessarily a rule. In many cases, it is the minimum amount of wire spring that should be added and it is possible to add up to 55mm of wire spring." - www.bramakingblog.com</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "karla" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">compared to:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">"Test the amount of splay in the wire by holding the front arm of the wire and flexing the side outward. Make a note of how much it splays. Trace the wire and then pivot the wire back the amount of the splay toward the side seam, using the bottom of the curve as a pivot point. Trace the new curve and use it for your bra draft. " - Bra-Makers Manual Vol 2.</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "karla" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "karla" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;">In essence, they are both stating the same thing. Bras need a little extra space in the channeling to account for the wire spring. Wire spring can differ depending on the size(length) of the wire. It would have helped my case IMMENSELY if the BMM had stated a 15 mm (smaller cups) and 55 mm (larger cups) as examples. I would have realized that my spring of 5 mm was much too small.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "karla" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;">Here is the result of drafting with too small a spring vs the 15 mm.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrTU-yyIq4RYk3UJiPG3oJnLXNvA_In0rodPzqPK2q4da57zXema7OWpVtT_EGP6kK5cJ6naq2CWmryEo4Jc9NtSwADbYWHDo9b9pVBw1kcTzcVFB9YR5qmrDVyB0-F_kzs4EegstRfVGi/s1600/DSC_0358.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="993" data-original-width="1600" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrTU-yyIq4RYk3UJiPG3oJnLXNvA_In0rodPzqPK2q4da57zXema7OWpVtT_EGP6kK5cJ6naq2CWmryEo4Jc9NtSwADbYWHDo9b9pVBw1kcTzcVFB9YR5qmrDVyB0-F_kzs4EegstRfVGi/s640/DSC_0358.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "karla" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;">The overall curve is flatter with the 15 mm vs the 5 mm as one would expect. However, it also LOWERS the overall height. In my case, a wire spring </span></span><span style="font-family: "karla" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">(using a U-Shaped wire)</span><span style="font-family: "karla" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><span style="font-family: "karla" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"> of 5 mm results in a center gore that was TALLER than the underarm - causing the droopy sad puppy eye cups!!! Hallelujah!</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLvIGQ6BMCSIEjmDVZ_3FvCMv8rn_RdsNNy8ruS_p9Ec2XvNkTWopWj6_dusTlohVAocxZ8hZmFqaxUKjoWxDQs2UR3BVHueeaXNkODmRLfN0sLwFd1i0cev2nqvsXIVXNt5UAEje3kj4B/s1600/DSC_0357.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLvIGQ6BMCSIEjmDVZ_3FvCMv8rn_RdsNNy8ruS_p9Ec2XvNkTWopWj6_dusTlohVAocxZ8hZmFqaxUKjoWxDQs2UR3BVHueeaXNkODmRLfN0sLwFd1i0cev2nqvsXIVXNt5UAEje3kj4B/s640/DSC_0357.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green line is perpendicular to center bridge - note how one side is taller than the underarm side.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "karla" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: "karla" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;">So, I think we're finally ready for some real lingerie fabrics and lace! Many thanks to Natasha and the fabulous people on the Bra Making Forum! This has definitely been my biggest bra making challenge yet!</span></span><span style="font-family: "karla" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-34916420617628496712018-01-08T01:17:00.003-08:002018-01-12T18:35:19.997-08:00Sewing Bras - Custom Drafting a Strapless Bra<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I know its been quite a few weeks without any bras - I'm finally ready to give a peek on what I've been working on.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBIIdLUN3CHJDV7vvP3CoAiuVXHKNlnyMSpMyKbzzeGwr3Rqw8aWyNlF-Ghu9sWY9-Jdx38D7dOjY7F9b1iZHjz9arvfcrNSUu3_iG_-m-MA_lKGlNHZsEx1Gn1r3PXVkwMRT4U9ZNE92k/s1600/DSC_0338.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1272" data-original-width="1600" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBIIdLUN3CHJDV7vvP3CoAiuVXHKNlnyMSpMyKbzzeGwr3Rqw8aWyNlF-Ghu9sWY9-Jdx38D7dOjY7F9b1iZHjz9arvfcrNSUu3_iG_-m-MA_lKGlNHZsEx1Gn1r3PXVkwMRT4U9ZNE92k/s640/DSC_0338.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I want/need a long line strapless bra as I do not have any in my current size. I use the term "long line" loosely as the name changes depending on the manufacturer, style, and even era. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To clarify, it is a bra that extends at least to the waist - I am prefer the type that ends at the hips. Like these.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhhGjnHuTZzEwrSg8vdvBMHYNtDPh_S-uVp-ME5876yq4CswCw9EYDqrwG0tDqOnqnDP_z35UXhyphenhyphen92zIlQ0sUryap7_mzCyxm1sb0pvZag3SoRz_5UqOYItczIROXz4Y54wkEZjumIU0be/s1600/Strapless.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="443" data-original-width="960" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhhGjnHuTZzEwrSg8vdvBMHYNtDPh_S-uVp-ME5876yq4CswCw9EYDqrwG0tDqOnqnDP_z35UXhyphenhyphen92zIlQ0sUryap7_mzCyxm1sb0pvZag3SoRz_5UqOYItczIROXz4Y54wkEZjumIU0be/s640/Strapless.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aren't they gorgeous? [From L to R] What Katie Did Glamour Noueveu, Warner's Merry Widow from 1957 and Cabaret Torsolette </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
That said, my first FEW attempts were pretty sad. Having made corsets before, I approached drafting the bra similar to corsets. Call it idiocy, call it over confidence, but it didn't occur to me to read over the section on Strapless bras in my favorite bra making book. The results were as one would expect.</span></div>
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#1 - Waist too big. Took a wild guess on % of reduction for the elastic. (I did 5%)<br />
#2 - Fixed waist, cups sagged, wrinkles at the center gore, boobs had zero lift and<br />
#3 - Inserted U-wires. This helped the cups retain some shape better but also were too long for the band.<br />
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This lead me to try drafting my own - properly.<br />
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Using the Bra Maker's Manual Vol 2, I was able to follow instructions and draft the band and lower cup without a problem. The upper cup directions was less so. At one point, I contemplated asking my husband to read the passage and see what he came up with. Ultimately, I succeeded on my own by looking at the diagrams and ignoring the directions! Then just needed to repeat all the steps for the other cup. I wasn't sure if it was even necessary as the cross cup measurement were different by half inch. Thinking I could probably use the practice anyway, I went ahead and drafted upper and lower cups for each breast. Its interesting to note the differences in pattern shape and size based on a difference of 1/2 inch! It took me 2 days but drafts are done! Not too bad as I was attempting this with my littles running around high on life.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfMEGkOvNmrp5Eul_HtAmSPZEI3BZIajRsFLfXFKrpDQxFf5yvNScWxdFKDKFAHRHkLWfKQJkSLBoI6NQwhnQH7DQrGN2ou5Ff0M9lkhvA1M8tYp4r3jAel9-XUhZu1j8iFHNF7gbQ7jHT/s1600/DSC_0334.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1229" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfMEGkOvNmrp5Eul_HtAmSPZEI3BZIajRsFLfXFKrpDQxFf5yvNScWxdFKDKFAHRHkLWfKQJkSLBoI6NQwhnQH7DQrGN2ou5Ff0M9lkhvA1M8tYp4r3jAel9-XUhZu1j8iFHNF7gbQ7jHT/s320/DSC_0334.png" width="245" /></a>Not wanting to COMPLETELY start over and waste perfectly good materials, I decided to sew up the bridge of my new self draft and OVERLAY it onto my in-progress strapless bra. On the same wavelength, I had hoped to reuse the bra cups, cut according the new pattern and re-insert. As expected, more issues arised.<br />
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#4 - cups are comically huge and pointy, wires do not spring (I do think this may be due to the elastics not being completely sewn on?)<br />
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It seems my NEW problems stem from measuring! Perhaps this is why they don't recommend working late into the night! That and my particular body type doesn't yield a visible IMF near the arm. No amount of poking or prodding could produce a semblance of a fold to measure the cross cup seam. In the end, I had to wear a bra and measure based on the indention the wire created when I took it off. Or just measure over a bra (not an option for those with my body type AND no well fitting bra!)<br />
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So after remeasuring, re-drafting and pattern creating, I test out my custom bra cup pattern ver 2.<br />
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#5 - cups are MUCH closer to being a real fit, but still pointy<br />
#6 - cups are no longer pointy but tilt downward toward the armpit despite ensuring marks on the cup lined up with the marks on the cradle.<br />
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In order to address the tilt issue, I decide I MIGHT need to actually make a full strapless bra based on the pattern I drafted. Thus, I take the cups out of the strapless long line, sew up the band of my custom draft and throw it on. Another COMICAL situation.<br />
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#7 - bra band is ridiculously huge. It measured 30" unstretched - and that included a 12.5% negative ease for the elastic (which incidentally, I apparently pickup that percentage out of nowhere).<br />
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This maybe more of a personal preference than mistake. My underbust measures 29" tight and 30" snug. Evidently I am accustomed to wearing my bra bands pretty tight. Perhaps it was from my years of wearing Victorian Corsets (off and on) for years. This was evident when I measured my underbust again - this time, while wearing a bra - and measured 29". [***Details Below ***]. Cue more drafting.<br />
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Aaaaand this is where I currently stand. Three days of proper bra drafting, testing, redrafting and more testing (not including the days where I worked on the Strapless Longline/merry widow/bustier even before cracking open my books!). Currently on version 2 of the band, version 4 of the cups, and version 2 of the merry widow. We will see what the next few days bring. Thank goodness for water soluable thread!<br />
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*****For those who may also run into this type of problem on their first foray into custom bra drafting, I took note of the finished (unstretched) band lengths of my RTW bras for comparison. My best fitting bras all had a 32 band that physically measured approximately 26.5" unstretched. With the 26.5" as a reference, I still had to decide the % of negative ease for the elastics. This percentage is dependent on the stretch factor of the fabric used for the back band. In my case, a single layer of powernet had 50% stretch (5" stretched to 7.5"). The Bra-Makers Manual says to reduce no more than 1/2 and ideally only 1/3 of the length (or anything within that range). So I do a few quick calculations to get some comparisons based on my 7.7" pattern piece.<br />
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25% reduction (1/2 of 50% stretch) = 1.81" x 2 (wings) = 3.6" => 25.4" total length<br />
16.6% reduction (1/3 of 50% stretch) = 1.2" x 2 (wings) = 2.4" => 26.6" total length<br />
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And just out of morbid curiosity, how much I would have needed to stretch on Ver 1 of my pattern with 7.75" piece:<br />
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25% reduction (1/2 of 50% stretch) = 1.94" x 2 (wings) = 3.875" => 26.125" total length<br />
16.6% reduction (1/3 of 50% stretch) = 1.29" x 2 (wings) = 2.6" => 27.4" total length<br />
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These numbers confirm what I have suspected for a while. The smaller the band size, the less "squish" one has to tolerate a firm band. This is due to the smaller bands having less fabric and thus less stretch. You can easily test this theory by stretching a piece of 5" elastic (or powernet) to its max. Then repeat with a piece of the SAME elastic that is only 2.5".<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-17903539636160814132018-01-04T10:50:00.001-08:002018-01-04T10:56:27.897-08:00Recipe - Organic Ointment AKA Petroleum Jelly Alternative (Vaseline)<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">How many of you grew up using Vaseline on your skin? My parents always kept a giant tub of it at home and used it for elbows, knees, heels and even hands and face if it was particularly dry or chapped. When my oldest was born, I was gifted a tub by a well meaning couple. Thinking nothing of it, I used it much the same way my parents did. Come to find out a few months later that my pediatrician DOESN'T recommend using it on kids! Hence my scramble to find an alternative!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I found a product that I really liked called Waxelene - its marketed as "The Petroleum Jelly Alternative" and Cloth Diaper Friendly. There are only a handful of ingredients: Organic Soy Oil, Beeswax, Natural Vitamin E oil, and Organic Rosemary oil. It was thick and malleable like petroleum jelly but slightly less potent. After my second tub of this awesome stuff, I realized my reasons for liking this product (over some others I've tried) is the same reason I should try making it myself. Short ingredient list, organic oils, and uses (mostly) stuff I already had at home. After a quick Google search and a few trials of different recipes, I came across this one from Frugally Sustainable [Original recipe <a href="https://frugallysustainable.com/homemade-vaseline-recipe-the-look-feel-of-petroleum-jelly-without-the-toxins/">HERE</a>]. Here is my version with a few alterations:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwbQzDaG68-c7nsVyuxR3_P0QPBZRIFxNB2j5kf2xjitMYhHCRIaFW7rto7jp2QuXQx4x_ZqveDd-jI-qsuy9bTItzeAIWAO8h2wmBIpkcyUZVN7Jr0MyIOHF0-tqEmvXOMFsvVaXEbGt5/s1600/DSC_0308.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1444" data-original-width="1600" height="576" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwbQzDaG68-c7nsVyuxR3_P0QPBZRIFxNB2j5kf2xjitMYhHCRIaFW7rto7jp2QuXQx4x_ZqveDd-jI-qsuy9bTItzeAIWAO8h2wmBIpkcyUZVN7Jr0MyIOHF0-tqEmvXOMFsvVaXEbGt5/s640/DSC_0308.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<h2>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Organic Ointment AKA Petroleum Jelly Alternative</span></h2>
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<h4>
<span style="font-weight: 700;">Ingredients</span></h4>
</div>
<ul style="box-sizing: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", sans-serif; font-size: 18px; margin: 0px 0px 28px 40px; padding: 0px;">
<li style="box-sizing: inherit; list-style-type: disc; text-align: left;">1/2 cup organic <a href="https://secure.ttpurchase.com/F40BC421-0A07-4779-29D424B13120EB2E" style="background: 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #005b8b; transition: all 0.2s ease-in-out;" target="_blank">coconut oil </a></li>
<li style="box-sizing: inherit; list-style-type: disc; text-align: left;">6 heaping tablespoons <a href="https://www.mountainroseherbs.com/catalog/ingredients/waxes#AID=134299" style="background: 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #005b8b; transition: all 0.2s ease-in-out;" target="_blank">beeswax</a> (<a href="https://www.mountainroseherbs.com/catalog/ingredients/waxes#AID=134299" style="background: 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #005b8b; transition: all 0.2s ease-in-out;" target="_blank">these beeswax pastilles </a>are so much easier to work with)</li>
<li style="box-sizing: inherit; list-style-type: disc; text-align: left;">1/4 cup organic <a class="tbf-add-link" data-amzn-asin="B00BOTZTDO" href="https://aax-us-east.amazon-adsystem.com/x/c/QjZH_Jo5UrEQnmN3zJtOcg8AAAFgv-PkeQEAAAFKAQTTa0c/https://www.amazon.com/Kirkland-Signature-Organic-Extra-Virgin/dp/B00BOTZTDO/ref=as_at/?creativeASIN=B00BOTZTDO&imprToken=-RWYQDCTYL64eAniR6GXng&slotNum=0&ie=UTF8&qid=1484348752&sr=8-2&keywords=olive+oil&linkCode=w61&tag=frugallysustainable-20&linkId=68876ee2dd7039caf9bfc29e6c9fc45f" rel="nofollow" style="background: 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #005b8b; transition: all 0.2s ease-in-out;" target="_blank">olive oil</a> </li>
<li style="box-sizing: inherit; list-style-type: disc; text-align: left;">2 heaping tablespoon <a data-amzn-asin="B000I1OYNK" href="https://aax-us-east.amazon-adsystem.com/x/c/QjZH_Jo5UrEQnmN3zJtOcg8AAAFgv-PkeQEAAAFKAQTTa0c/https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1OYNK/ref=as_at/?imprToken=-RWYQDCTYL64eAniR6GXng&slotNum=2&ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000I1OYNK&linkCode=w61&tag=frugallysustainable-20&linkId=UQCQXAG7UTSNIOYS" rel="nofollow" style="background: 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #005b8b; transition: all 0.2s ease-in-out;" target="_blank">lanolin</a></li>
<li style="box-sizing: inherit; list-style-type: disc; text-align: left;">1/8 cup organic <a href="https://www.mountainroseherbs.com/products/vitamin-e-oil/profile#AID=134299" style="background: 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #005b8b; transition: all 0.2s ease-in-out;" target="_blank">vitamin E oil</a> from Trader Joe's (its a mix of soybean oil and vitamin E hence the large jump in volume. If you have pure vitamin E, stick with the original 1 tsp vitamin E and 1/8 cup Soybean/caster oil)</li>
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<span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-weight: 700;">Method</span></h4>
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<ol style="box-sizing: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", sans-serif; font-size: 18px; margin: 0px 0px 28px 40px; padding: 0px;">
<li style="box-sizing: inherit; list-style-type: decimal;">In a small sauce pan, over low to medium heat, warm <a class="tbf-add-link" data-amzn-asin="B00DS842HS" href="https://aax-us-east.amazon-adsystem.com/x/c/QjZH_Jo5UrEQnmN3zJtOcg8AAAFgv-PkeQEAAAFKAQTTa0c/https://www.amazon.com/Viva-Labs-Finest-Organic-Coconut/dp/B00DS842HS/ref=as_at/?creativeASIN=B00DS842HS&imprToken=-RWYQDCTYL64eAniR6GXng&slotNum=3&s=grocery&ie=UTF8&qid=1484348334&sr=1-3&keywords=coconut+oil&linkCode=w61&tag=frugallysustainable-20&linkId=2b63796a7ffb6a5480cb3acc2388f1ba" rel="nofollow" style="background: 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #005b8b; transition: all 0.2s ease-in-out;" target="_blank">coconut oil</a> and <a class="tbf-add-link" data-amzn-asin="B01FCF5RIC" href="https://aax-us-east.amazon-adsystem.com/x/c/QjZH_Jo5UrEQnmN3zJtOcg8AAAFgv-PkeQEAAAFKAQTTa0c/https://www.amazon.com/Pastilles-Deodorants-Mary-Tylor-Naturals/dp/B01FCF5RIC/ref=as_at/?creativeASIN=B01FCF5RIC&imprToken=-RWYQDCTYL64eAniR6GXng&slotNum=4&ie=UTF8&qid=1483588352&sr=8-4&keywords=beeswax&th=1&linkCode=w61&tag=frugallysustainable-20&linkId=6652e239d40ac4c668ce59d60a73de95" rel="nofollow" style="background: 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #005b8b; transition: all 0.2s ease-in-out;" target="_blank">beeswax</a> until melted.</li>
<li style="box-sizing: inherit; list-style-type: decimal;">Remove from heat and add olive oil, lanolin, and <a class="tbf-add-link" data-amzn-asin="B00CHTX1AS" href="https://aax-us-east.amazon-adsystem.com/x/c/QjZH_Jo5UrEQnmN3zJtOcg8AAAFgv-PkeQEAAAFKAQTTa0c/https://www.amazon.com/JASON-Vitamin-All-Over-Nourishment-Ounce/dp/B00CHTX1AS/ref=as_at/?creativeASIN=B00CHTX1AS&imprToken=-RWYQDCTYL64eAniR6GXng&slotNum=5&ie=UTF8&qid=1484348366&sr=8-3&keywords=vitamin+e+oil&th=1&linkCode=w61&tag=frugallysustainable-20&linkId=2eefd9878ce72d2183787a15f618191a" rel="nofollow" style="background: 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #005b8b; transition: all 0.2s ease-in-out;" target="_blank">vitamin E oil</a>.</li>
<li style="box-sizing: inherit; list-style-type: decimal;">Using a hand mixer, whisk until all ingredients are well combined.</li>
<li style="box-sizing: inherit; list-style-type: decimal;">Continue to whisk as mixture cools, whisk until mixture is creamy.</li>
<li style="box-sizing: inherit; list-style-type: decimal;">Pour from pan into a <a data-amzn-asin="B000VTSYA8" href="https://aax-us-east.amazon-adsystem.com/x/c/QjZH_Jo5UrEQnmN3zJtOcg8AAAFgv-PkeQEAAAFKAQTTa0c/https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VTSYA8/ref=as_at/?imprToken=-RWYQDCTYL64eAniR6GXng&slotNum=6&ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000VTSYA8&linkCode=w61&tag=frugallysustainable-20&linkId=LEGXCOXOT7YGS7Q2" rel="nofollow" style="background: 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #005b8b; transition: all 0.2s ease-in-out;" target="_blank">4 ounce glass jar</a> (<a data-amzn-asin="B000VTSYA8" href="https://aax-us-east.amazon-adsystem.com/x/c/QjZH_Jo5UrEQnmN3zJtOcg8AAAFgv-PkeQEAAAFKAQTTa0c/https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VTSYA8/ref=as_at/?imprToken=-RWYQDCTYL64eAniR6GXng&slotNum=7&ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000VTSYA8&linkCode=w61&tag=frugallysustainable-20&linkId=LEGXCOXOT7YGS7Q2" rel="nofollow" style="background: 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #005b8b; transition: all 0.2s ease-in-out;" target="_blank">I keep these on hand</a> at all times) or any other appropriate storage container of your choosing.</li>
<li style="box-sizing: inherit; list-style-type: decimal;">Optional - Feel free to add a few drops of your favorite aromatherapy oil or enjoy the natural scent of the beeswax.</li>
</ol>
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This homemade product will keep fresh on the counter for up to a year. You can skip the whisking if you don't have a hand mixer but it will be more like a salve. If you would like the mixture to be more creamy and less thick, decrease the beeswax by 1 tbs. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1aRtkHi1bzMKs-oFPkdTKGnqzq2HtDRYAdjsDYHyAWX_XhTiMKHlqc8a19FYYopOE2F0mkPxygA5DuQsznL4liDdD4-H54EQqFbk-zQs2xNY7TXyEtAdtr9epN_GCBQjQSwLgGeQj5Qew/s1600/DSC_0307.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1aRtkHi1bzMKs-oFPkdTKGnqzq2HtDRYAdjsDYHyAWX_XhTiMKHlqc8a19FYYopOE2F0mkPxygA5DuQsznL4liDdD4-H54EQqFbk-zQs2xNY7TXyEtAdtr9epN_GCBQjQSwLgGeQj5Qew/s640/DSC_0307.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-7288039704552687832018-01-02T10:14:00.000-08:002018-02-19T08:51:09.968-08:00Recipe - Whole Wheat Blender Pancake [in a blender] UPDATED!So I recently discovered the world of freshly ground whole wheat and the subsequent Pancake recipe in a blender. This revised version addresses the issue of the pancake being "flat" with a few key changes. Check out my previous attempts <a href="https://multifariousmommy.blogspot.com/2017/12/recipe-whole-wheat-blender-pancake-in.html">HERE</a>.<br>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTDQ2bDqCNheplkpRCKe6a4HORy9J-K1AgOeQ4JrVCzwZhwBc6uDmz02LOveK8P5K3Cphy_sQjDa3LVI0X74jLtI5kxdPnPb3fBNwok8w7lDgVZcmCp5uB92gQpKnwRyAwMkncUB7RCl-T/s1600/DSC_0304.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1437" data-original-width="1600" height="572" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTDQ2bDqCNheplkpRCKe6a4HORy9J-K1AgOeQ4JrVCzwZhwBc6uDmz02LOveK8P5K3Cphy_sQjDa3LVI0X74jLtI5kxdPnPb3fBNwok8w7lDgVZcmCp5uB92gQpKnwRyAwMkncUB7RCl-T/s640/DSC_0304.png" width="640"></a></div>
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<h3 id="ingredients" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #71b2b6; font-family: proxima_nova, arial, helvetica, geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: 0.1em; line-height: 1.2; margin: 20px 0px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-transform: uppercase; vertical-align: baseline;">
<u>Whole wheat pancake [in a blender] updated</u></h3>
<h3 id="ingredients" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #71b2b6; font-family: proxima_nova, arial, helvetica, geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: 0.1em; line-height: 1.2; margin: 20px 0px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-transform: uppercase; vertical-align: baseline;">
INGREDIENTS:</h3>
<div class="ingredients" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #666667; font-family: adelle, georgia, "times new roman", times, serif; font-size: 14px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<ul style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style: none; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 3px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1/2 cup wheat berries/kernels</li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 3px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1/2 cup milk + </li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 3px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1/4 cup milk (a splash really)</li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 3px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1 large egg</li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 3px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">2 tablespoons sugar </li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 3px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1/2 tablespoon baking powder</li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 3px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">2 tablespoons butter</li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 3px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">3 tablespoons plain unflavored yogurt</li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">3/8 teaspoon salt</li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1 tablespoon vanilla extract (optional)</li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><br></li>
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DIRECTIONS:</h3>
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<li><span style="color: #666666;">Combine the wheat berries/kernels and the buttermilk in a high powered blender [like Vitamix or Blendtec] and blend on high for 30 seconds (quickly moving from 1-10 speed then high), until the mixture is smooth and thick.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #666666;">Add the 1/2 cup milk and the remaining ingredients and blend until the batter is smooth [about another 30 sec]. Scrape down the sides as needed and blend again for 10 sec. Batter should be smooth, slightly thick and slightly warm (not steaming) </span></li>
<li><span style="color: #666666;">Cook the batter on a hot griddle for pancakes or in a waffle iron for, well, waffles!</span></li>
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<a href="https://www.melskitchencafe.com/whole-wheat-blender-pancakes-my-new-favorite-breakfast/">HERE</a> is the original recipe from Mel's Kitchen Cafe.<br>
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NOTES ABOUT THE RECIPE</div>
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This version of the recipe is especially tailored for high powered blenders like Vitamix or Blendtec. You can definitely still make pancakes in a regular blender but your blend time would be 3 times as long. Mel did state that there are no substitutions for the whole wheat berries for this recipe. I assume that's because 1 cup of freshly blended wheat berries DOES NOT EQUAL 1 cup of store bought wheat flour. Its the same concept of 1 cup of sugar vs 1 cup of packed sugar.</div>
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NOTES ABOUT THE FINAL PANCAKE</div>
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Final pancake is soft, fluffy and yummy. I did increase the amount of sugar to better mimic the Japanese style pancakes <span style="font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit;">(AKA hottokeki or hot cakes) </span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit;">our family likes so much. I am fairly certain the addition of yogurt provided the extra moisture and fat without making everything too liquid-y. The batter itself is on the thinner side - I was able to pour it out the blender (no spoon necessary!) - meaning less clean up! This pancake is great topped with whipped cream and fruit! Syrup is optional. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGdNkC4Lkq9ilPapVigtcYmLe7RffSMG_kZKloDPd6duCdZXEHsz4s_JF9bV1X6SrP91pdd3acCKxdjtHBPSdWtZ2EAtBuu-DUaz7zo__nC9yk-rf6tBn-qRNEzU2CNJaTMMJRWR73FxFA/s1600/DSC_0302.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1108" data-original-width="1600" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGdNkC4Lkq9ilPapVigtcYmLe7RffSMG_kZKloDPd6duCdZXEHsz4s_JF9bV1X6SrP91pdd3acCKxdjtHBPSdWtZ2EAtBuu-DUaz7zo__nC9yk-rf6tBn-qRNEzU2CNJaTMMJRWR73FxFA/s640/DSC_0302.png" width="640"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See how fluffy it is?</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-35419986955110380842017-12-28T11:36:00.000-08:002018-01-02T10:15:02.279-08:00Recipe - Whole Wheat Blender Pancake - in a blender!In my recent experiments grinding my own wheat flour from wheat berries, I came across a recipe to make whole wheat pancakes in the blender. No bowls to wash and I get to use my Vitamix? Sold!<br />
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The original recipe came from Mel's Kitchen Cafe [recipe <a href="https://www.melskitchencafe.com/whole-wheat-blender-pancakes-my-new-favorite-breakfast/">HERE</a>].<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsYNkd_GyxoO1ATn9LGh2tl4IrfK_pp3yRAOton6QnBH5heZYS6v4kuxDYN9wyMT2orDY7CR3gTRFxqY6wDCEfcY90sAUZkEJuUFnQrIMavwWCfrfzPF02cOplZW23-KlWVPpKWLLNtJ6O/s1600/Blender-Pancakes1-JPG1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="552" data-original-width="430" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsYNkd_GyxoO1ATn9LGh2tl4IrfK_pp3yRAOton6QnBH5heZYS6v4kuxDYN9wyMT2orDY7CR3gTRFxqY6wDCEfcY90sAUZkEJuUFnQrIMavwWCfrfzPF02cOplZW23-KlWVPpKWLLNtJ6O/s640/Blender-Pancakes1-JPG1.jpg" width="498" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo from Mel's Kitchen Cafe</td></tr>
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Doesn't it look great?<br />
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My first attempt using this recipe was a disaster. Following the directions to blend for 3 minutes in Step 1 yielded a thick batter that looked more like dough AND was steaming when I opened the lid. I should have taken that as a hint. Proceeded to add the rest of the ingredients as the directions state and it quickly became clear that it was too thick to blend and my awesomely powerful Vitamix was starting to overheat. In a final attempt to save this, I added yet more liquid and tried to cook it. Bad idea. The batter remained gooey in the middle and wouldn't solidify. That one got binned.<br />
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Never having messed up on pancake before, I looked in the comments and discovered quite a number of other people who had similar issues with the recipe when using a high powered blender like the Vitamix or Blendtec!<br />
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Attempt #2 began with only half the recipe. Partially because I was cooking for 2 kids under 5 years and partially because I wouldn't feel as bad if this batch was also botched. Below is my modified version of Mel's recipe that works with Vitamix or Blendtec blenders.<br />
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INGREDIENTS:</h3>
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<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: 0px 0px; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 3px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1/2 cup wheat berries/kernels</li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: 0px 0px; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 3px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1/2 cup milk + </li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: 0px 0px; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 3px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1/4 cup milk</li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: 0px 0px; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 3px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1 large eggs</li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: 0px 0px; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 3px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1 teaspoons sugar</li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: 0px 0px; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 3px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1/2 tablespoon baking powder</li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: 0px 0px; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px 0px 3px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">2 1/2 tablespoons butter, melted</li>
<li class="ingredient" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: 0px 0px; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; list-style-type: none; margin-bottom: 0px !important; margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">3/8 teaspoon salt</li>
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DIRECTIONS:</h3>
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<li><span style="color: #666666;">Combine the wheat berries/kernels and the buttermilk in a high powered blender [like Vitamix or Blendtec] and blend on high for 30 seconds - 1 min, until the mixture is smooth and thick.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #666666;">Add the 1/2 cup milk and the remaining ingredients and blend until the batter is smooth [about another 30 sec].</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #666666;">Cook the batter on a hot griddle for pancakes or in a waffle iron for, well, waffles!</span></li>
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NOTES ABOUT THE RECIPE</div>
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This version of the recipe is especially tailored for high powered blenders like Vitamix or Blendtec. You can definitely still make pancakes in a regular blender but your blend time would be 3 times as long. Mel did state that there are no substitutions for the whole wheat berries for this recipe. I assume that's because 1 cup of freshly blended wheat berries DOES NOT EQUAL 1 cup of store bought wheat flour. Its the same concept of 1 cup of sugar vs 1 cup of packed sugar.</div>
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NOTES ABOUT THE FINAL PANCAKE</div>
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Final pancake is soft, yummy and filling. It is however, no where near as fluffy. This is inherent to WHEAT FLOUR (store bought or freshly milled) in any pancake recipe. I imagine you can retain some of the fuffiness by substituting half of the wheat flour with white flour. You'll have to weigh the wheat berries before blending and only use half the weight. Then add in the white flour after the step 1. I have not tried this so it is all theoretical at this point. I did also notice that adding in agave yielded a flatter pancake than just sugar.</div>
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POSSIBLE FUTURE ALTERATIONS</div>
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We have grown accustomed to eating Japanese style pancakes (AKA hottokeki or hot cakes) which are fluffier and sweeter. This is due to their using CAKE FLOUR and a larger amount of baking powder. Having tried making hottokei with store bought wheat flour before, I know that a wheat based pancake batter will never be as fluffy as its counterpart. Nevertheless, I would still like to try meld the best of both worlds given how easy it is to make in a blender! In the mean time, here's my favorite hottokeki recipe: http://bossacafez.blogspot.com/2012/08/japanese-pancakes.html?m=1</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-91105139373563754962017-11-30T10:16:00.000-08:002017-11-30T10:22:47.233-08:00Recipe - Sweet Rye Bread<span style="font-family: inherit;">In all the years I've owned our Vitamix blender, I've had a variety of uses for the multipurpose tool: muffins, pao de queijo, blending soups, nut butters, Nutella, ice cream, apple sauce and powdered sugar. While I've ground my fair share of almond meal for baking, I've never actually used it on grains for flour. Its been in the back of my mind for some time - freshly milled grains for fresh baked bread. I've heard it also tastes much better as <span style="background-color: transparent;">"wheat <span style="box-sizing: border-box;">flour loses 40% of its vitamin content in the first 24 hours after milling and 85-90% after 2-3 more days" [<a href="https://www.kitchenstewardship.com/food-for-thought-is-freshly-milled-flour-more-nutritious/">source1</a>] and [<a href="http://www.cooksscience.com/articles/feature/fresh-flour-power/">source2</a>]. In essence, freshly milled grains taste better and are better for you. Enough said.</span></span></span><br />
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After purchasing some Rye Berries on whim (it was on sale!) I decided on this recipe: <a href="https://naturallyella.com/swedish-rye-bread-and-a-grain-mill-review/">Sweet Rye Bread</a> based on the fact I had all the ingredients on hand. I had to make some minor changes (molasses instead of sorghum syrup and store bought wheat flour) but delicious all the same. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent;">As for the milling itself - it was pretty simple. I used the Vitamix dry container and dumped a cup in at a time. I wasn't sure about the volume as how much you can pour into the container often depends on the oil and hardness of the ingredient (in general, less for nuts, more for grains and even more for sugar.) but one cup seemed to work well for the rye. Remember one cup of grains makes a little more than a cup of flour. I did not sift and in hindsight, that may have been a good idea (perhaps I should have researched milling a bit more before jumping in!).</span><br />
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<h2 style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border-bottom-color: rgba(232, 230, 213, 0.5); border-bottom-style: solid; border-image: initial; border-left-color: initial; border-left-style: initial; border-right-color: initial; border-right-style: initial; border-top-color: initial; border-top-style: initial; border-width: 0px 0px 4px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #3f3b36; display: inline-block; font-family: Merriweather; font-size: 14px; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: 1px; line-height: 16px; margin-bottom: 10px !important; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 5px; text-rendering: optimizeLegibility; text-transform: uppercase; vertical-align: baseline;">
INGREDIENTS</h2>
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "merriweather"; font-size: 12px;"></span><br />
<ul class="ingredients" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #3f3b36; font-family: Merriweather; font-size: 16px; line-height: 25px; list-style: none; margin: 0px 0px 20px !important; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<li class="dynamic-ingredient" data-portion="1.5" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px; list-style-image: initial !important; list-style-position: initial !important; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="portion" data-default="1.5" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1 1/2 </span><span class="ingredient" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px !important; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">cups warm water</span></li>
<li class="dynamic-ingredient" data-portion="2.5" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px; list-style-image: initial !important; list-style-position: initial !important; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="portion" data-default="2.5" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">2 1/2 </span><span class="ingredient" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px !important; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">teaspoons dry active yeast</span></li>
<li class="dynamic-ingredient" data-portion="0.25" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px; list-style-image: initial !important; list-style-position: initial !important; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="portion" data-default="0.25" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1/4 </span><span class="ingredient" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px !important; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">cup dark brown sugar</span></li>
<li class="dynamic-ingredient" data-portion="0.25" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px; list-style-image: initial !important; list-style-position: initial !important; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="portion" data-default="0.25" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1/4 </span><span class="ingredient" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px !important; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">cup of oil (or melted butter)</span></li>
<li class="dynamic-ingredient" data-portion="0.5" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px; list-style-image: initial !important; list-style-position: initial !important; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="portion" data-default="0.5" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1/2 </span><span class="ingredient" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px !important; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">cup sorghum syrup</span></li>
<li class="dynamic-ingredient" data-portion="1" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px; list-style-image: initial !important; list-style-position: initial !important; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="portion" data-default="1" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1 </span><span class="ingredient" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px !important; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">tablespoon salt</span></li>
<li class="dynamic-ingredient" data-portion="2" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px; list-style-image: initial !important; list-style-position: initial !important; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="portion" data-default="2" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">2 </span><span class="ingredient" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px !important; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">cups rye flour</span></li>
<li class="dynamic-ingredient" data-portion="2" itemprop="ingredients" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px; list-style-image: initial !important; list-style-position: initial !important; list-style-type: none; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="portion" data-default="2" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">2 </span><span class="ingredient" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 25px !important; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">to 3 cups unbleached all purpose or wheat</span></li>
</ul>
<div>
<div class="recipe-instructions-wrap" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: Merriweather; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<h2 style="background: transparent; border-bottom-color: rgba(232, 230, 213, 0.5); border-bottom-style: solid; border-image: initial; border-left-color: initial; border-left-style: initial; border-right-color: initial; border-right-style: initial; border-top-color: initial; border-top-style: initial; border-width: 0px 0px 4px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #3f3b36; display: inline-block; font-size: 14px; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: 1px; line-height: 16px; margin-bottom: 10px !important; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 5px; text-rendering: optimizeLegibility; text-transform: uppercase; vertical-align: baseline;">
INSTRUCTIONS</h2>
<div itemprop="recipeInstructions" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<ol style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; margin: 0px !important; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<li style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #3f3b36; font-size: 16px; line-height: 25px; list-style: none !important; margin: 0px 0px 15px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">In the bowl of a stand mixer combine the water, yeast, and sweetener- give a quick stir and let sit until yeast becomes active, 5 to 10 minutes.</li>
<li style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #3f3b36; font-size: 16px; line-height: 25px; list-style: none !important; margin: 0px 0px 15px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Stir in oil, sorghum, salt, and rye flour. Start bread with the dough hook.</li>
<li style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #3f3b36; font-size: 16px; line-height: 25px; list-style: none !important; margin: 0px 0px 15px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Add 1/2 cup of all purpose flour and continue to slowly add flour (1-2 tablespoons at a time) until dough pulls away from the side of the bowl. Let run for 8-10 minutes. This will give you time to adjust flour and let the dough knead. Remember- you can always add flour but you can’t always take it away. The dough should be soft and slightly sticky. Cover with a damp towel and set aside to rise for 1to 1 1/2 hours.</li>
<li style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #3f3b36; font-size: 16px; line-height: 25px; list-style: none !important; margin: 0px 0px 15px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Once the first rise is over, knead a couple of times into the form of a log. Place in an oiled bread pan, cover again and set aside for about 1 hour. With 30 minutes left, pre-heat your oven to 350˚ F.</li>
<li style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #3f3b36; font-size: 16px; line-height: 25px; list-style: none !important; margin: 0px 0px 15px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Once the loaf has risen the second time, place in oven. (if you have a bottle of water, mist the bottom of your oven a couple of times to get some steam going.) Shut the oven door and let bake for 20 minutes. Cover with a brown paper bag and continue to bake for another 30-40 minutes. Bread should have a golden crust and sound hollow when you tap on the bottom. Remove bread from pan and let cool before slicing.</li>
</ol>
</div>
</div>
<div style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #3f3b36; font-family: Merriweather; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; margin-bottom: 10px !important; orphans: 4; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
by <strong itemprop="author" style="background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 16px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Erin Alderson</strong></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-12206260890527041412017-11-18T11:34:00.002-08:002017-11-18T11:36:33.025-08:00Sewing - Copying a RTW Panty! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrgbrW9Mzpy4h8CxZD9jZCIZffW4kIvkIdkCJovCbB9oabmtO1xH4zupFKIS1s-tzgfAEfEGk8AzcMdBspqmCdT2-J_-lunMJnSn-pL61QF_XMKI-NXI8yXpotsUBgbDqOko08QuHRZQhQ/s1600/Copy-RTW-panty.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="1131" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrgbrW9Mzpy4h8CxZD9jZCIZffW4kIvkIdkCJovCbB9oabmtO1xH4zupFKIS1s-tzgfAEfEGk8AzcMdBspqmCdT2-J_-lunMJnSn-pL61QF_XMKI-NXI8yXpotsUBgbDqOko08QuHRZQhQ/s640/Copy-RTW-panty.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Having just finished my last bra - a Comexim conversion [check that one out <a href="https://multifariousmommy.blogspot.com/2017/11/sewing-bras-designing-new-style-based.html">here</a>], I wanted a matching panty to go with it. Not just any panty but a cute lacy panty in a design I haven't tried before. Then I came across this panty:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJfcboDrrdetdq9IEltuvMQMTXxAXIvKT2xCil9v-XnCrekKYNCXXUx4KhHPECHr5LA3Ch42Pyz7lai_WYkNGQz0fp-8Dbak12RBqt5JPTBhMsp_qdC2aArxj6QShCPz4ve5HBlKFoT98F/s1600/Maison+Lejaby+Corolle+Hipster+Panty.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="952" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJfcboDrrdetdq9IEltuvMQMTXxAXIvKT2xCil9v-XnCrekKYNCXXUx4KhHPECHr5LA3Ch42Pyz7lai_WYkNGQz0fp-8Dbak12RBqt5JPTBhMsp_qdC2aArxj6QShCPz4ve5HBlKFoT98F/s640/Maison+Lejaby+Corolle+Hipster+Panty.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maison Lejaby Corolle Hipster Panty</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Isn't it absolutely gorgeous?<br />
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Unfortunately, its also $55!! For one pair of panties! Unable/unwilling to spend that much on something just to cover my tush, I resolved to make my own.<br />
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Fans of the Bunzies or Scrundlewear underwear patterns from Stitch Upon a time, this is the sexier, lacy-ier version. Notice the knit waist band - look familiar? Back looks pretty similar to the Super Booty cut.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWstI7caoLa73P9UnW7kCfEhriVZdNX8jX8-Ui16_Mh7Rdn_ienreHkXOjbWiR113sC1cWAKpCuj3QvvqizJk68kG9v80ELBrKUfWLjUnCVeN90UEE8Cl22024VqlBFGdQae6V3mx4ozCd/s1600/Maison+Lejaby+Corolle+Hipster+Panty2.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="671" data-original-width="963" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWstI7caoLa73P9UnW7kCfEhriVZdNX8jX8-Ui16_Mh7Rdn_ienreHkXOjbWiR113sC1cWAKpCuj3QvvqizJk68kG9v80ELBrKUfWLjUnCVeN90UEE8Cl22024VqlBFGdQae6V3mx4ozCd/s320/Maison+Lejaby+Corolle+Hipster+Panty2.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
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To me, this seemed like a mash up of the ever popular Merckwaerdigh Mix 30 and the Bunzie/Scrundlewear patterns. Luckily, I have experience with both! Plus that Sewing Panties by Beverly Johnson on Craftsy on drafting from scratch.<br />
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PROCESS<br />
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Using your measurements, you create a draft of the perfect fitting underwear tailored to your body. Yes, there is a bit of math involved (ex. hip x .80 = panties that account of the stretchiness of knit fabric) and you end up with something similar to this:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXBJjlH8KJPmXLQH2uCcjC_cyQhZRBipc0xpJiLLSkjOcosbnvCpxUcDrc-GRkEdVK80VokkdA6e00gSc13asDuI5SWjetdhDQzFgYadm3ebL8ada5GwDnsta4p0TkpNb7i8orb92XmuEw/s1600/c745647b39451402aa50a7c68ef18e13--sew-pattern-pattern-drafting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="500" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXBJjlH8KJPmXLQH2uCcjC_cyQhZRBipc0xpJiLLSkjOcosbnvCpxUcDrc-GRkEdVK80VokkdA6e00gSc13asDuI5SWjetdhDQzFgYadm3ebL8ada5GwDnsta4p0TkpNb7i8orb92XmuEw/s320/c745647b39451402aa50a7c68ef18e13--sew-pattern-pattern-drafting.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not actual underwear schematic - random internet pic</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Then add additional seam lines to mimic the look of the RTW undies. In this case, diagonal seams in the front and vertical seams in the back. This leave you with the front and back panel mostly complete (just add seam allowance). You have to tape together the front side and back sides and straighten the bottom where the leg curve normally is to accommodate the lace (remember that straight line is the LOWEST POINT ON LACE). For the lace pieces only add seam allowance to the sides and not the bottom of the lace - as thats where your lovely scallops will be! Repeat process with the crotch piece (tape together front and back pieces then add seam allowance). In the end, you should have a main front piece, main back piece (option to split this down the fold line to create a seam - like the photo. Just remember to add seam allowance if you do this), side piece (for the lace) and crotch piece. I did not create a pattern for the knit waistband and just eye balled it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAgTFvA5Qs-fEPUL9mrCe9H5H-dNlRJ6cTwvcl1vzLRr54LZPiC6_v8eCiu0uLx11d1Y4UGlNz-Mz_-Thgw4kfkc-ZLI3t2f5EHTZ7obbuWFlzaxOXRbvOCTXeq7b3xpJA535rtJ7ucAVg/s1600/DSC_6637.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAgTFvA5Qs-fEPUL9mrCe9H5H-dNlRJ6cTwvcl1vzLRr54LZPiC6_v8eCiu0uLx11d1Y4UGlNz-Mz_-Thgw4kfkc-ZLI3t2f5EHTZ7obbuWFlzaxOXRbvOCTXeq7b3xpJA535rtJ7ucAVg/s640/DSC_6637.png" width="640" /></a></div>
I'm pretty excited about it. Also helps that its pretty comfy thanks to the knit waistband!<br />
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ISSUES ENCOUNTERED<br />
Since I haven't really worked with lace much, I wasn't as careful as I should have been about ensuring the lace lined up with the fabric. I had to take out a few seams due to how slippery the fabrics were. Another issue is that as comfy as the panties are, they FELT lower than I was accustomed to. Since this was not the first time I've used the panty draft, I know it is EXACTLY the same height, but perhaps due to the lack of elastic, it felt lower and thus a bit less secure. I'd say for next round, I would reduce the length of the waistband pattern and possibly increase the back rise as well.<br />
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And since I was ALREADY sewing with satin and lace, I decided to try an all lace version so popular in stores.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWHn9cv0W-Ifak2O7Fsas5uRtxNPH1QgLpcbh6zw5cclb66Rhyphenhyphen_bICQENlOoTxAqfbeLEOpWr53Y8TYNtNcL_FvmjqSbCoInOcYCvurQncA6YR0ycfuXnN4kipn4PnKymhXdiykztU_q6A/s1600/DSC_6641.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1108" data-original-width="1600" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWHn9cv0W-Ifak2O7Fsas5uRtxNPH1QgLpcbh6zw5cclb66Rhyphenhyphen_bICQENlOoTxAqfbeLEOpWr53Y8TYNtNcL_FvmjqSbCoInOcYCvurQncA6YR0ycfuXnN4kipn4PnKymhXdiykztU_q6A/s640/DSC_6641.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
I think it turned out pretty well! It was actually ridiculously easy to make. No wonder the lace panties are so popular at Forever 21 and Wet Seal! Maybe 15 minutes? I used the same underwear sloper from the Craftsy class to create this one. It was my first time using fold over elastic - I've heard some people have a difficult time working with it but it was super easy once you get the hang of it. Also note the little keyhole in the back. It was actually the result of my lace being not quite wide enough for the pattern. I thought about adding a bit of satin in there as others have done but it was so small I thought it might be cute as is.<br />
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ISSUES ENCOUNTERED<br />
Similar to above. Lace + Satin = slippery little guys that need actual pins to keep in place while overlocking. I prefer to use my Clover clips when overlocking to avoid any, uh, mishaps at the machine. However, there was no avoiding it in this case.<br />
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Overall, I'm pretty happy with how these two came out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFzcokBDNgtdNcw6xXHU3YQkJS8wSALesqDyN3bbAXe2wzzAPW7DI7kmAstPp_imbMf1YKPeuUicPlaDEokTqREU0Ud4WCZvhn3w_79dSeUxAIqIfP8EgaTHTHzIS2VvvfQ96VVwhqoNLd/s1600/DSC_6643.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="986" data-original-width="1600" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFzcokBDNgtdNcw6xXHU3YQkJS8wSALesqDyN3bbAXe2wzzAPW7DI7kmAstPp_imbMf1YKPeuUicPlaDEokTqREU0Ud4WCZvhn3w_79dSeUxAIqIfP8EgaTHTHzIS2VvvfQ96VVwhqoNLd/s640/DSC_6643.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-37592053068217469482017-11-15T11:00:00.000-08:002017-11-15T11:19:38.717-08:00Momofuku Crack Pie RecipeAfter a recent French Macaron Order, I was left with 10 (count them, TEN) egg yolks. [Get a glimpse of what I made <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Lilypadesigns/">here</a>.] I normally try to use them in in a delectable French Buttercream or delicious Japanese style pudding (aka Flan) but neither recipes would use up anywhere near 10 yolks (unless I made double or triple batches!!). So after a quick Google search, I came upon the Momofuku Crack Pie. Never having been to the Momofuku Milk Bar in which the pie originates but I've had a friends version one Thanksgiving - and remember going back for seconds. Who are we kidding - it was thirds... They don't call it Crack Pie for nothing!<br />
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<a href="http://www.cookingchanneltv.com/recipes/momofuku-milk-bar-crack-pie-1961319">LINK</a> to recipe here.<br />
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Make no mistake, this is not quick bake by any means. AND.... This is about as healthy as deep fried butter rolled in bacon bits and topped with Vanilla Ice Cream. BUT oh man, is it delicious. The Momofuku Crack Pie seems to be on the same wavelength as Chess Pie - on crack. [pun intended!] So save yourself the $50 or so and spend a few hours making your own.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho9eHQyPeQzOJfPeP_eGYFrTvliHaqCoM1z3pj8vsOPbVT87eQtykAT5hEUorWy_BU7-tFqppiPRb3fs7-x8Rj0tJKWCOJkLkiW_eUzjV01f0Po7Ogh9IyiLn_xlDTpb-skdCAzb1eEsAr/s1600/DSC04958.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1064" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho9eHQyPeQzOJfPeP_eGYFrTvliHaqCoM1z3pj8vsOPbVT87eQtykAT5hEUorWy_BU7-tFqppiPRb3fs7-x8Rj0tJKWCOJkLkiW_eUzjV01f0Po7Ogh9IyiLn_xlDTpb-skdCAzb1eEsAr/s640/DSC04958.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Look at that ooey gooey goodness on the inside! An entire GIANT oatmeal cookie as the crust, lots of brown sugar and butter = total awesomeness. Oh, did I mention the recipe makes TWO pies? One to keep and one as gift - be the office hero. They will be begging for more. Promise.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-50888925630466764312017-11-07T11:11:00.000-08:002017-11-15T11:24:12.738-08:00Sewing Bras - Designing a New Style Based on a Well Fitting Pattern (aka Block)Now that the Costume Season (aka Halloween) is over, lingerie sewing has resumed its full course. Yay!<br />
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In my pursuit to further my (bra) education, I've decided to try out a new style with different materials. As I am not quite ready to completely draft my own patterns from scratch, using a well fitting pattern (aka Block) seemed like a step in the right direction.<br />
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I really liked this style of bra: integrated powerbar/lower cups with strap tab with small section of lace upper. Add a few minor tweaks to suite my particular preferences (lower center gore and foam lower cups) and its perfect!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnE00OSbqMhf3swipsCX_QNiB83jU8zbosU4DCeKKBPChposUXtsOwr46fhYpGNEAeX87cTOdsayjUjAtHLMTF6irvkA_ltdd91DD_qEXxa7SG3fv34hGFHjmT_jBZRop54yBs0ed6pjIi/s1600/Untitled-1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="459" data-original-width="1229" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnE00OSbqMhf3swipsCX_QNiB83jU8zbosU4DCeKKBPChposUXtsOwr46fhYpGNEAeX87cTOdsayjUjAtHLMTF6irvkA_ltdd91DD_qEXxa7SG3fv34hGFHjmT_jBZRop54yBs0ed6pjIi/s640/Untitled-1.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[Cleo Lucy, Gorsenia Marlene, and Freya Arabella]</td></tr>
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As I already had a great fitting foam bra pattern (my fabulous Comexim copy - details <a href="https://multifariousmommy.blogspot.com/2017/08/sewing-bras-copying-my-favorite-rtw-bra.html">Here</a>), I used it as my block. Following the directions from the Bra-Makers Manual (Vol 2) by Beverly Johnson, I ended up with this:<br />
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Basically taking the curves off, draw new lines then add curves back on. [You can see a bit of this in action on Erin's Blog <a href="http://emeralderin.com/2015/09/bra-week-35-bra-theory-plunge-wires.html">Here</a>] A quick muslin (just one cup) then basted into my test band, and we were ready to for final adjustments.<br />
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Here's the final! I'm super spiffed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRhOpYxNmXjy5s_aAwrHnKif67Vr2-gOUqEFo91V3FFZ-O5i07F0tcqgWqW_TV3nqDaNW3ltRR7XrFhLk5t_4g2y6ASE46RkIh5UQ9GrX5nGCbyWDf_sPK1mU7nCPLGbFASD3x3XisxX8u/s1600/DSC_6557.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1331" data-original-width="1600" height="532" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRhOpYxNmXjy5s_aAwrHnKif67Vr2-gOUqEFo91V3FFZ-O5i07F0tcqgWqW_TV3nqDaNW3ltRR7XrFhLk5t_4g2y6ASE46RkIh5UQ9GrX5nGCbyWDf_sPK1mU7nCPLGbFASD3x3XisxX8u/s640/DSC_6557.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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THE PROCESS<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6-cLcsVhjDYsVzQ_qGcwADxBhkoqHisMC_UnyJh8P-NmMh02_cmCRRd7hbHMTS3Yq03s5dHyEocLsz4keea0JID310j9bes34PWcqqU0_hoVCjgnka-Ffkx4mAxzx8sVbJyYknGs1VLzD/s1600/DSC_6565.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1205" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6-cLcsVhjDYsVzQ_qGcwADxBhkoqHisMC_UnyJh8P-NmMh02_cmCRRd7hbHMTS3Yq03s5dHyEocLsz4keea0JID310j9bes34PWcqqU0_hoVCjgnka-Ffkx4mAxzx8sVbJyYknGs1VLzD/s320/DSC_6565.png" width="241" /></a>I cut out the lower cup pieces in cut-and-sew foam and identical pieces in my fashion fabric. The satin-y material is wonderful under fitted clothing. For the upper pieces, I used a stretch lace from <a href="http://www.bijanexpo.com/">Trim Expo</a> during my last foray into the Fashion District (Nice selection, great prices!). Then cut the same pieces in bra tulle for the lining. Since I wasn't using a pattern with accompanying instructions, I assembled the pieces together in the order that made the most sense to me. Zig zag foam pieces together then sew lower cup fabric pieces together. Baste tulle and lace together, add tiny elastic for neckline, sew combined upper cup piece to combined lower cup pieces. Sew just the strap tab portion of the fabric to the foam (right sides of fabric to wrong side of foam) then flip open. With wrong side of fabric facing up (and right side of foam), overlap the fabric and foam a few mm and sew INSIDE the seam allowance. Flip over and top stitch on the cross seam. Pin down lower edges of fabric to foam and baste. Finish as usual.<br />
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A few minor tweaks to the band - added a gothic arch and doubled up on the power mesh in the back. Also some adjustments to accommodate the lace on the back band.<br />
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THE FIT<br />
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I am pleased to report it fits! [with caveats]. Cups fit wonderfully - a little too good as this is definitely a push up bra w/ lots of cleavage. Since I used the Comexim pattern, the girls are lifted and centered without the help of any additional padding or internal slings! The gravity defying shape was created by relatively FLAT cups (the cups gain shape when they conform to the underwire) - contrary to everything I've read about bra making thus far. Immediate projection at the wire is non-existent - this would normally cause major fitting issues for me but not in this time! The bust point of Comexim bra cups tend to be above my bust point (I believe this is by design) and was also perfect for this particular re-design.<br />
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THE PROBLEMS<br />
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My myopic focus on the cups had caused some oversight on the band. 1.) I had raised the height of the wide wings (for that super sleek silhouette I crave) but had forgotten to raise the back band as well. Thus the band only has 3 hooks in the back, caused some lumps and bumps. 2.) I had also doubled the powermesh for the back band AND added stretch lace resulting in significantly less stretch. Thank goodness I had one of those bra extenders handy! 3.) The shorter back band also made the back straps too far apart. Sigh.<br />
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Overall I'm very pleased.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-49195003832585967972017-10-27T13:09:00.004-07:002017-11-05T22:42:02.937-08:00Sewing Bras - Starting with a Underwire Bra Block<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Hello again! Its been a few crazy weeks with the Halloween coming up - which means significantly less time for bra sewing and more time costume sewing! At any rate, here is a bra I finished just before the rush began.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdwJ4pg4SdhGrmxdpyuVAF3WdDbGfmnlTunTQnowE8RE_GpOLGCrSR1pztK6G0SkXwffQvJXKw6m95eT54eNzQgQKe1XRtM7-sIxlBWiMg-E0Nl5_J0Ir2kvKf0Fw4yUSnO2tLUT5kdqaQ/s1600/DSC_6493.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1137" data-original-width="1600" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdwJ4pg4SdhGrmxdpyuVAF3WdDbGfmnlTunTQnowE8RE_GpOLGCrSR1pztK6G0SkXwffQvJXKw6m95eT54eNzQgQKe1XRtM7-sIxlBWiMg-E0Nl5_J0Ir2kvKf0Fw4yUSnO2tLUT5kdqaQ/s640/DSC_6493.png" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This is a <a href="http://porcelynne.com/books-downloads/digital-patterns/bra-pattern-download-from-bare-essentials-bras-2nd-edition">free pattern</a> from Bra Essentials (available in sizes 30A to 40F). I initially wanted to try this mostly because it was free (and given the good experience I had with the free Maya pattern) but noticed quite a few things were off. The bust point seemed to be dead center in the middle of the cup vs toward the center front, upper cup was too tight, wrinkles at the wire etc, etc. Seemed to be an excessively long list of things to correct. As I pondered some more (and inquired on the trusty Bra Making Group) it occurred to me that this pattern may be a Underwire Bra Block. Which makes perfect sense as this PDF pattern had zero instructions with it. Definitely NOT for beginners.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br />WHAT IS A BLOCK? <br /><br />According to fashion-incubator.com, they define it as "A block is the pattern of a style" and "promising fit to key dimensions of the average sized consumer" according to the book Innovation and Technology of Women's Intimate Apparel By W Yu, J Fan, S-P Ng, S Harlock.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br />THE PROCESS</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was inspired by a gorgeous sheer bra with curved lace inset that </span><br />
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ended above the horizontal seams and center set straps (vs the ever popular wide straps). But before I can get to the fun design aspect, I needed to get a proper fit. Given the long list of alterations needed, I was surprised to do everything with the help of a only 5 muslins! Muslin #1 addressed the bust point - it thankfully also took care of a significant number of wrinkles in the cups which likely attributed to the small number of alterations. Muslin #2 and #3 addressed upper cup being too small. Muslin #4 changed the strap attachment shape to better mimic my inspiration bra and a small wrinkle at the wire typical to my body type. Muslin #5 adjusted the strap attachment a smidge more and tried the curved illusion technique using lycra instead of lace - then it was ready for the fashion fabric! Not included were my usual adjustments specific to my shape and preferences: narrow gore at the top and widen at the bottom, increased width of the back back for a smoother silhouette. I also added my very first Gothic Arch along the bottom band!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">PROBLEMS ALONG THE WAY</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br />The band sewed up easily along the way - including the gothic arch. I got to do a practice run with my last muslin which definitely helped! Issues began to arise as I was working with the lycra. I had ran out of lace (after my first attempt making this pattern with my good fabrics) and thought I'd give this piece of lycra a go in place of the lace. Well, the lycra behaved differently being sandwiched next to the bra cup netting than my cotton muslin fabric and the finished bra had extra wrinkles from the lycra layer. I was able to hand sew the excess in to the wireline with a bit of effort. Lastly, related to the fabric choice was the thread tension as I sewed the horizontal seam - the seam itself is too tight. Bra fits but seam is more noticeable than it should be.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />So here it is with some matching panties! Completely wearable and pretty comfy if I do say so myself. Just don't look too closely. =)</span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-33266562410823815592017-09-02T14:47:00.002-07:002017-09-11T10:07:24.421-07:00Sewing Bras - More Watsons! An experiment in stretch and supportI'm on a Watson kick! After making my <a href="https://multifariousmommy.blogspot.com/2017/08/sewing-bras-watson-bra-pattern-by-cloth.html">first retro inspired wireless bra</a> and discovering how COMFY it is, I quickly made a few more (including one as a gift!). In this iteration, no alterations were made to the pattern, just different fabrics and powernet. All three were make in size 32F (I'm usually a 32E/F in UK sizes).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1wqJ29r_6gzKRRBUgMD5EYVpWWpe-7mGctGd43H7pDzTiPjb1hA34B-mlGyah2Fw3RWBtUH1L-OoAk6XPzSuoAbbpsn7-0r1FzKh7zHrf1zEikazj8kyp4piXTa7Apo6JDvD-TIzohrDH/s1600/DSC_6032.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="845" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1wqJ29r_6gzKRRBUgMD5EYVpWWpe-7mGctGd43H7pDzTiPjb1hA34B-mlGyah2Fw3RWBtUH1L-OoAk6XPzSuoAbbpsn7-0r1FzKh7zHrf1zEikazj8kyp4piXTa7Apo6JDvD-TIzohrDH/s320/DSC_6032.png" width="169" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA9mfr-PhaDfT0Ott7CaeJVEefYNhyLYZTjxvYEeN2IOnWnxz5AKr4QJndKv1fIgPcigX2bZJac2jL3paXaIfSaobFPh6w9WmUg9qvo_irLloeC8uDshNC3cRrohyphenhyphenB4Ogt0rPtSojRxDOP/s1600/DSC_6034.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="782" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA9mfr-PhaDfT0Ott7CaeJVEefYNhyLYZTjxvYEeN2IOnWnxz5AKr4QJndKv1fIgPcigX2bZJac2jL3paXaIfSaobFPh6w9WmUg9qvo_irLloeC8uDshNC3cRrohyphenhyphenB4Ogt0rPtSojRxDOP/s320/DSC_6034.png" width="156" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFaJKMlso2lszWr7zKWW1O9WPBaw_EwwYQJWkKacFyJu-scTJqMQTR_BueFmIEv7mNrFpAz-0OXponlalNUHRXSQd7p64KtwcAv99rKkwIMiGgZ_fFFqLDUxs3EK_EKZNvgx-LSMEf2pjH/s1600/DSC_6038.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="913" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFaJKMlso2lszWr7zKWW1O9WPBaw_EwwYQJWkKacFyJu-scTJqMQTR_BueFmIEv7mNrFpAz-0OXponlalNUHRXSQd7p64KtwcAv99rKkwIMiGgZ_fFFqLDUxs3EK_EKZNvgx-LSMEf2pjH/s320/DSC_6038.png" width="182" /></a></div>
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FABRIC BREAKDOWN<br />
Striped Watson - Slighter heavier Medium weight Knit with FIRM powernet through out. Fabric has the recommended 75% stretch. Brief pattern from Bare Essentials.<br />
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Red Watson - Medium weight Knit with doubled fashion fabric - NO powernet. Fabric has the recommended 75% stretch. Brief pattern from Bare Essentials w/ modifications.<br />
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Blue Watson - Medium weight Ribbed knit with LIGHT powernet throughout. Fabric has the recommended 75% stretch. Bikini pattern from Watson Kit.<br />
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Power nets - Light has about 100% stretch, Medium about 50% and Firm about 30%<br />
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FIT<br />
While both the Red and the Blue Watson were comfy around the band, the cups from Blue Watson fit better. It provided more coverage and moved with the body better. The Red Watson was a close second with the cups ever so slightly too small. Time will tell how the Red Watson holds up as without the powernet, will likely loose its elasticity quickly. <strike>The Striped Watson was simply too small in the cups. This is likely due to the FIRM powernet not having enough stretch.</strike> After actually WEARING the Striped Watson for a day, I revise my statement. FIRM powernet does have some stretch and conforms to the body after a short while. I no longer feel like I have side boob and the Striped Watson provides the most support in the band AND the cups. The girls looked perkiest with the FIRM powernet <strike>but also oddly squished - this is likely due to the cups being too small as the pattern was designed for fabrics with significantly more stretch</strike> and is the powernet I would recommend for those with larger cups. I can easily wear this out on short trips without worrying about headlights. In all three cases, I added plastic boning to the side seams to help keep the band from rolling up but also helps with support (especially with larger cups) and overall silhouette. Once on, I found the side boning to be un-noticable and was able to sleep with no problems.<br />
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For ladies who are on the larger cup side, I would highly recommend the FIRM powernet for the bridge/band and either MEDIUM power net for the cups or FIRM but GO UP A SIZE. I would wager that the best configuration for those who are more well endowed, would be FIRM bridge/band and Medium cups. This will be the combo I try next.<br />
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Here's the reason why:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimkYKNQZk_JyYuLgECPqIDtGenrNnroqYlBYMgMb7Lr46o2kiAftYAleWgGFOoRUd_Vu00U0B249l8jZWxmqCDJZk3Ezs0bzM3MJZ21bJ0KXQQ1Tm5i6tIcCQW7CvlSsb5VPMDWXevLt4r/s1600/DSC_6041.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1353" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimkYKNQZk_JyYuLgECPqIDtGenrNnroqYlBYMgMb7Lr46o2kiAftYAleWgGFOoRUd_Vu00U0B249l8jZWxmqCDJZk3Ezs0bzM3MJZ21bJ0KXQQ1Tm5i6tIcCQW7CvlSsb5VPMDWXevLt4r/s320/DSC_6041.png" width="270" /></a></div>
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Those are fine threads of lycra/elastic coming apart at the seams of the LIGHT Powernet from my <a href="https://multifariousmommy.blogspot.com/2017/08/sewing-bras-watson-bra-pattern-by-cloth.html">first Watson</a> (LIGHT powernet in cups, MEDIUM powernet in band with Knit Terry fabric) I've worn it twice, washed once. Its possible the LIGHT powernet simply cannot support the weight of larger cups. No matter, its super comfy and I will likely continue to wear it until it falls apart. Given I will likely only wear my Watson's at home AND the fraying is on the inside, no one can tell.<br />
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Woo! And now I have a few matching sets for lounging around in this 100+ degree weather!</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-48973075304069283102017-08-21T15:36:00.001-07:002017-11-07T13:14:32.667-08:00Sewing Bras - Copying My Favorite RTW bra!It's finally finished! This gorgeous blue and purple bra got put on the back burner as I excitedly sewed up the Pin-up Girls Classic Bra and awaited the arrival of different underwires.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFTVlchSvZVsc74MH4D_DnO7xTo3xiknk1lj4l3VCY25MM2O-I3U7y8mG6FM_E8TugUWRbi-95ND5NYBvO8MAg4YtUgt8gnU6LBkmnx8EHyAHfBhUp-UznRhrtydZg5K7XPL1-CT4c7235/s1600/DSC_5941.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1093" data-original-width="1600" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFTVlchSvZVsc74MH4D_DnO7xTo3xiknk1lj4l3VCY25MM2O-I3U7y8mG6FM_E8TugUWRbi-95ND5NYBvO8MAg4YtUgt8gnU6LBkmnx8EHyAHfBhUp-UznRhrtydZg5K7XPL1-CT4c7235/s640/DSC_5941.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look at those fabulous colors!</td></tr>
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I'm loving how everything turned out! Mirroring the fabric was a labor of love as the original fabric included pixilated gradations from green to blue to purple.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWxxJp8edpz4udTG94DeheUJiHeWhyphenhyphenwCTRET34GMDLODvL59WiHueR0WjoBCBtF6maRLs1Q0HEfUoy5NWvJ7PEMYVFSq3tUHXpaly_Q5lcTXdAMejr7GwDy3h2pVoj6gQo3WRLeAgnMXd-/s1600/DSC_5942.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1203" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWxxJp8edpz4udTG94DeheUJiHeWhyphenhyphenwCTRET34GMDLODvL59WiHueR0WjoBCBtF6maRLs1Q0HEfUoy5NWvJ7PEMYVFSq3tUHXpaly_Q5lcTXdAMejr7GwDy3h2pVoj6gQo3WRLeAgnMXd-/s640/DSC_5942.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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At anyrate, a quick run down of how I copied my favorite RTW bra. After stalking Beverly Johnson's (aka The Fairy Bra Mother) blog, she had mentioned "pin copying" the seams [link <a href="https://braandcorsetsupplies.com/2016/02/06/cloning-ulla/">here</a>] on your favorite bra to get the basic patterns. I had attempted to copy this particular bra before and thought I had a pretty good approximation but this is variation yielded MUCH better results. [Previous attempt <a href="https://multifariousmommy.blogspot.com/2017/07/sewing-bras-copying-your-favoritebest.html">here</a>] And with fewer revisions. Actually, I haven't needed to do any alterations yet.<br />
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Steps amount to placing paper over foam board/cardboard. Place bra on top of paper - making sure the paper is large enough to pin copy the pieces on to. I started with the smallest piece - inner bottom cup. Use a few pins to "stretch" out the corners and curves. Then use a pin to "trace" around the seam lines like you're a cheap tattoo artist. Remove and repeat on an different piece. For longer pieces you may need to pin out half of the piece, "trace" with pin, remove most of pins leaving the ones near the center of that piece. Then pin the other half of the piece and finish "tracing" the piece with the pin. Trace the dots and true the lines. Your patterns pieces are ready!<br />
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Here are my results!<br />
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In this particular case, while i did trace the bridge and back band, I used my go-to pieces. A heavily altered cradle and back band from the Maya bra.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifFM4_yHWMV9nK-5mMnfsv1yhz1IREwKSQCcKo9nFzjY-EbR2CuMmegORdINzi12sUvVZv2fNLHE7cC5MsRK2LvnSGo6W_ro5C7DFDE7Dx8pisDgkOvBOnpWw5dvkHQT3ZEI4CzQpIDIPr/s1600/DSC_5946.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1164" data-original-width="1600" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifFM4_yHWMV9nK-5mMnfsv1yhz1IREwKSQCcKo9nFzjY-EbR2CuMmegORdINzi12sUvVZv2fNLHE7cC5MsRK2LvnSGo6W_ro5C7DFDE7Dx8pisDgkOvBOnpWw5dvkHQT3ZEI4CzQpIDIPr/s640/DSC_5946.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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A close up on the pleat detail. Here's the <a href="https://braandcorsetsupplies.com/2014/05/10/pirates-passion-the-sunburst-bra/">link</a> for the methods I used from Beverly's blog.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3APXZIEkK28FWtgCQnxm6aA4GhtKZTxMp7_JZEcPGaUI4G-k_ow0-Y8elJMKvFKfzNuVXOqAYv7cwNyGYCSlIogD2YBS50XOrosICpMDLgyg5avf2gVeXpEmkVDrHrkbKO8xCen0kdyoV/s1600/DSC_5948.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1115" data-original-width="1600" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3APXZIEkK28FWtgCQnxm6aA4GhtKZTxMp7_JZEcPGaUI4G-k_ow0-Y8elJMKvFKfzNuVXOqAYv7cwNyGYCSlIogD2YBS50XOrosICpMDLgyg5avf2gVeXpEmkVDrHrkbKO8xCen0kdyoV/s640/DSC_5948.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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A full coverage, ballet style back band with 4 [four!] rows of hooks/eyes. The higher sides and back ensure a smooth silhouette.<br />
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Here's my version vs the original. What do you think?</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-30049420608401639372017-08-19T11:41:00.002-07:002017-08-19T12:58:57.992-07:00Sewing Bras - Watson Bra Pattern by Cloth HabitI took the plunge! Tried out the VERY popular <a href="https://shop.clothhabit.com/products/watson-bra-bikini?variant=939719301">Watson Bra Pattern</a> by Cloth Habit. And boy and I glad I did!<div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkXuWj4KcEcAKtXJxUiRy-o5sBEpFvX37yguRas_xOrUjqV7dG5i242y7zRAyBTRExYQfwXfd3LWG5sBk5N-QeC47tZ0FJLeoqsglb3ofKg8xsb9w_ByvJJrSLRpZHtkE1fwsC9kRhrDNv/s1600/DSC_5927+%25281%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1447" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkXuWj4KcEcAKtXJxUiRy-o5sBEpFvX37yguRas_xOrUjqV7dG5i242y7zRAyBTRExYQfwXfd3LWG5sBk5N-QeC47tZ0FJLeoqsglb3ofKg8xsb9w_ByvJJrSLRpZHtkE1fwsC9kRhrDNv/s640/DSC_5927+%25281%2529.png" width="578"></a></div>
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Easy to sew and SOOO comfy. You better believe I'll be making more of these babies. I forsee nursing bra conversion, maybe a cami overlay version, lace... so many possibilities!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjypHGx7KBLSRknwJOr_UfjXy8JPaSPmUVBVL3PDB8jzlWYIcMr6dFnX0S_64WAoXw5kfZAud2N5HoVeLp3YSrsdWwJsK463rPaIvvWmNImkMiB-IwswSfDZdeL0bseNh_tUsfX418lwKL/s1600/DSC_5928.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1301" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjypHGx7KBLSRknwJOr_UfjXy8JPaSPmUVBVL3PDB8jzlWYIcMr6dFnX0S_64WAoXw5kfZAud2N5HoVeLp3YSrsdWwJsK463rPaIvvWmNImkMiB-IwswSfDZdeL0bseNh_tUsfX418lwKL/s320/DSC_5928.png" width="260"></a></div>
<div><br></div>No alternations needed. Zero! Fabric was a knit terry from my knit stash I picked up for cheap ($2/pound!) in downtown LA last year. I used lightweight powernet in the cups and medium weight powernet in the band. Elastics from Sew Sassy. To keep things a little neater (and comfort), I did use wire channeling to cover up the cup seams though no wires were used. The bows were necessary to cover up the mess at the top of the cups due to not following instructions. 😑</div><div><br>
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<div><br></div><div>Money well spent. I'll definitely be making more! </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-73847562281433636932017-08-18T21:54:00.000-07:002017-08-18T21:55:22.908-07:00Sewing Bras - Pinup Girls Classic Bra Pattern <div dir="ltr">
Yay! My order from Bra Makers Supply came in! In addition to their very popular Classic Bra Pattern, I also picked up the Bra-makers Manual volume 1 and 2. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbHks7qpWHihpIeqv39t9LcWAjNZ7HB905sy3gAgk0oQnugfX5CYN7YVvhUlsKD7h6ynWUN2udMoVilQbUQV8kWodRV5yaZFYpro1l5Fke0weJEKbiFnUjPKlPA6_3RsCjYZN5HcXaUH7n/s1600/DSC_5916.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1289" data-original-width="1600" height="513" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbHks7qpWHihpIeqv39t9LcWAjNZ7HB905sy3gAgk0oQnugfX5CYN7YVvhUlsKD7h6ynWUN2udMoVilQbUQV8kWodRV5yaZFYpro1l5Fke0weJEKbiFnUjPKlPA6_3RsCjYZN5HcXaUH7n/s640/DSC_5916.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Feeling brave after reading the thorough instructions and hearing about all the great reviews about this pattern, I decided to sew it up without making a toile first! It's SOO nice to read sewing instructions that are not only well written, but geared toward beginners. Although I've sewed a half dozen bras already, the methods I used were gathered haphazardly - a few sew-alongs, an online video, random Google searches on specific techniques. I can definitely see why so many people recommend this pattern as their first foray into sewing underwire bras - makes wonder why I didn't choose it myself. There is something to be said about paying for a well made sewing pattern and the accompanying instructions. Nevertheless, the tidbits helped improve my sewing - creating neater stitches and more refined workflow.<br />
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BRA SIZE<br />
I did a bit of research to see how others chose their size as the size recommended using the instructions yielded 32A... It gave me chuckle as I haven't been a true A cup since high school. After stalking her (Beverly Johnson's) blog, I found this <a href="http://bramakers.blogspot.com/2015/03/four-ways-of-measuring.html">link</a>. She discusses the 4 common ways to measure for bra size, as well as their pro/cons. While she uses the underbust/overbust method most frequently, she freely admits it doesn't work well for petite women. She did mention that the Bottom Cup Depth method is the most accurate and I agree with this. Luckily, the BCD measurement yielded the same bra size as the ABTF calculator in my case - now a 32E (post weaning).</div>
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CONSTRUCTION AND ALTERATIONS<br />
The bra sewed up pretty quickly - no linings or lace to fiddle with - and true to unlined bras, easily showed you where adjustments needed to be made. Initially, it looked like there was too much projection the cups as the apex wrinkled but seemed to fit everywhere else. I had started pinning to reduce the projection when I remembered something from Beverly's Manual about taking in just the bottom cup depth. A few pins later, the cups fit! I think this particular method only works with my particular body type though. The only other alternation I had to make was taking a wedge out of the bridge under the arms. I found this change to harder to transfer to my pattern than the others but <u>thankfully</u> the Manual had instructions for that too.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeZcvsEX-BhRVNaKZrjuZ1g4l9FWxp1chk-B1cHn1XckCzkC1N03u9Ww0x6ZxlC462zUs-eyzHnHlJu16KRhha6Q8ddG3WYyt1wKaj7uCmt5bqk4nxZfsDXsAXF07SgX4pnw_qTEYleoi8/s1600/DSC_5881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeZcvsEX-BhRVNaKZrjuZ1g4l9FWxp1chk-B1cHn1XckCzkC1N03u9Ww0x6ZxlC462zUs-eyzHnHlJu16KRhha6Q8ddG3WYyt1wKaj7uCmt5bqk4nxZfsDXsAXF07SgX4pnw_qTEYleoi8/s320/DSC_5881.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture of my super quick ALL BASTE STITCH tester in Simplex</td></tr>
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FIT <br />
It fits pretty well! The center gore is a hair too narrow - my fault as I just eyeballed the amount I needed to take in since it's pretty much need to take it in for all bras. Cups are pretty spot on after taking in the the lower cups only. Still scratching my head on that one a bit - I've been TOO projected for many RTW unlined bras so this is a change. The dart I inserted in the bridge could stand to be taken in a smidge more as well. Band is stretchier than I would like - the 32 fit more like a 34 as I have them on the tightest hooks. But that's an easy fix. I may double up on the medium powernet or just shorten the band next time. Straps are pretty comfy and STAY on despite my sloped shoulders. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiotLfdZXPHCEtaIyATp_1aRZS6KdPcxSPuSSyugBT4CbBVKMD9487oGxdu0WjQeIwLt1ggtKkveTG3fUC-7wrc3hAHEkD-97Pp9dxQ_e799HZjbQS7Ois1GhOZ2wBjRHQ7R1RXnYdxCn_6/s1600/DSC_5918.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1591" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiotLfdZXPHCEtaIyATp_1aRZS6KdPcxSPuSSyugBT4CbBVKMD9487oGxdu0WjQeIwLt1ggtKkveTG3fUC-7wrc3hAHEkD-97Pp9dxQ_e799HZjbQS7Ois1GhOZ2wBjRHQ7R1RXnYdxCn_6/s400/DSC_5918.png" width="397" /></a></div>
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CONCLUSION <br />
The Pin-up Girls Classic Bra Pattern is an excellent first (or second, third or sixth) underwire bra pattern. Instructions are thorough with pictures and the patterns themselves are organized in a way that is easy to find. While the full coverage style itself isn't earth shattering, it does make fitting easier and a well-fitting bra will beat a cute ill-fitting one any day. I forsee this pattern translating well into a nursing bra, demi cup and foam cup versions and for the intrepid, a sport bra (with the help of the Bra Makers Manual). </div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-5194327728303895642017-08-11T16:02:00.000-07:002017-12-31T23:47:57.719-08:00Sewing Bras - Finebrand Lingerie Supply (Brick and Mortar Store!) EDIT 9/1/2017: Add more info on elastics, fabrics and hook/eye after 2ND visit!<br />
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Woo hoo! A brick and mortar store that sells, gasp, bra making supplies in the Los Angeles, CA area.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigBspqGtZd7jcJe87tCDI8gzdBdClRkfBUv_ubEgcG1V6ux7GqwcmpPZtfUV8q2qBqPX6kH6WXOTlHuTd0QNC25htW-Tx7WdygJ8acUzwdy-K6KbovsnjMAokU_E0DeW__n3YuitiMiXSP/s1600/_20170811_154524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="593" data-original-width="1600" height="118" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigBspqGtZd7jcJe87tCDI8gzdBdClRkfBUv_ubEgcG1V6ux7GqwcmpPZtfUV8q2qBqPX6kH6WXOTlHuTd0QNC25htW-Tx7WdygJ8acUzwdy-K6KbovsnjMAokU_E0DeW__n3YuitiMiXSP/s320/_20170811_154524.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.finebrand.net/products.htm">Finebrand</a> is a wholesaler just south of Downtown LA that specializes in bra and bra related supplies for RTW. Luckily for us home sewers in the LA area, they are also open to the public. I assume this is due to their proximity to several Fashion Schools and Art Schools as well as the Fashion District (there were a few students there during my visit). The only requirement is a $25 minimum.<br />
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Finebrand<br />
3720 South Santa Fe Ave<br />
Vernon, CA 90058<br />
323-588-3228<br />
http://www.finebrand.net/products.htm<br />
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My experience there was quite pleasant (understatement - I was practically dancing) from the service to the pricing. Make no mistake - they are a WHOLESALER, I walked into a warehouse. Do not expect a fancy facade, bright lights, price tags or registers. While they do have a website, it does not currently support online shopping.<br />
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<b>As they are geared toward the RTW market, there are a few things I want to note for us home sewers and/or fashion students. </b><br />
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- They have a good variety of underwires (demi, regular, vertical, plunge etc) but limited in size. There was nothing above a 44 underwire size. It seems they have wires starting at 32 - 42 range? They also have plastic underwires for those with allergies.<br />
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- Lots of molded cups, rolls of poly laminate foam for those who want to make their own foam cups, thicker padding for inserts. Again, only basic colors: black, white or nude<br />
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- Found a roll of Black cotton lycra (at least I'm pretty sure thats what it was) and rolls of nylon knit fabric (1 way stretch in black, white and nude)<br />
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- Channeling seems a bit thinner than the one I've been using (acetate tricot cover with cotton bias) but seems on par with most other channeling purchased online and in RTW bras. There seem to be multiple types - the thinner plush type in RTW bras, thicker type with seam line (similar to the acetate tricot cover with cotton bias) and a REALLY thin type that looks like it was made of felt (to be fair, I think this is for the plastic boning on the side wings.)<br />
EDIT 12/31/2017: They have multiple types of channeling. They have the fuzzy type usually seen in RTW bras, the thicker type similar to the acetate tricot cover, and a thinner fuzzy type that feels like felt (very thin, I wouldn't recommend this for use with underwires - maybe plastic boning).<br />
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- No tricot or any other bra lining material (despite what it says on their website). I did ask to verify. The do have a thin shiny material (maybe 15 denier?) that they use to cover foam cups with. It has a 60-75% stretch one way and maybe 2% stretch the other. I can't remember what they called it but it wasn't tricot or acetate. They had a similar material in black (she said they were different as this one is thicker - maybe 25-30 denier?) that felt a lot like lycra but only had 2 way stretch.<br />
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- No lace, lycra, tulle, mesh/netting that I saw. This makes sense as they cater to the RTW market<br />
EDIT 12/31/2017: I found a TINY selection of lace. Boxes of 1" non-stretch lace on rolls (pink and nude). A some 1" stretch lace in white, blue and red - only 1 roll each.<br />
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- Full range of sizes for Strapping Plush Elastic but larger widths (5/8") are limited to the usual: black, white or nude. Nice range of colors in smaller widths (red, gray, pink, brown, etc). They have 1" Strapping Plush Elastic on rolls and pre-made straps in various colors/sizes.<br />
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- Solid variety of elastics for bra making. Plush Picot Elastics in various sizes on rolls in black, white or nude (3/8" - 2" wide on rolls!!). Plush lingerie elastics (no picot - smallest size was 1/4" in black or white), picot elastic (not plush - smallest was 3/8" in black), regular elastics, rope elastic.<br />
EDIT 12/31/2017: I found their basic Plush Picot Elastic is on the stretchy side. Their scalloped Plush Elastic was firmer. The widest plush picot elastic was 1" not 2". They DO have a 1.5" Lingerie elastic (no plush, no picot) - It works well as a stretchy stay tape for strapless longline/merrywidow/bustiers.<br />
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- They have the BEST Power Net. Its thicker than anything I've seen for bra making. [It should be noted, I've only purchased Power Net/Power Mesh from 2 other suppliers so take my thoughts with a grain of salt. If my other 2 are rated as lighweight and medium, then THIS one is definitely heavyweight/FIRM] Similar to the type on shapewear.<br />
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- They also have an excellent selection of hook and eyes. Single sets of eyes, two, three, four rows, etc - all pre-finished and professionally looking. They also have my favorite hook and eye tape on a roll - 3 columns of hooks, I determine the number of rows according to my needs (Black or white only).<br />
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<b>Additional Info</b><br />
- Full range of Sliders and Rings in metal, nylon covered metal and plastic. The gunmetal looked quite nice as does the currently popular gold colored. Still looking for a reason to get the ROSE GOLD. So gorgeous!<br />
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- They have plastic boning for the side wings in MANY different styles. Continuous roll, covered, undcovered, covered precut lengths ready for insertion. LOVE! One notable difference of the covered variety is the cover itself is velvet and the plastic boning thin enough to sew through. <strike>Unlike the infamous Ridgeline, the plastic boning is all one piece instead of many tiny strands held together with nylon.</strike> The covered boning - continuous roll or precut are available in black, white or nude only. Ridgeline is also available on continuous roll covered or as is.<br />
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- They have a decent selection of CORSET making supplies as well! Coutil, busks, hook and eye (1" apart) and metal stays (spiral and regular) in a full range of prefinished lengths as well as continuous roll. Metal boning seems a bit thinner than my german ones but for non-tightlacing purposes, it should be fine.<br />
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- To get the best bang for the buck, buy in bulk. Especially for basics that you KNOW you'll use: powernet, sliders/rings, elastic. The price break can be up to 50% depending on the item ($0.20 ea for one or $0.10 ea for 100+)<br />
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- Have a list ready. Things move faster and more efficiently if you know what you want. Feel free to check out what their carry as well as their terminology on their (limited) <a href="http://www.finebrand.net/products.htm">website</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHkMwQ9wQJZn-AwwLvn2EN2uBGz9_-npHtxVk0kXW8ddRJQj5TWGBKCKXJR4vft2-i-ZREaUwTVLVq4U6uSRekYUJGGdxFgko7FST7ZmRzCBtf9uycLO4vOHCN50wYY4OWtIz-FxRy0Bwm/s1600/_20170811_154607.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1325" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHkMwQ9wQJZn-AwwLvn2EN2uBGz9_-npHtxVk0kXW8ddRJQj5TWGBKCKXJR4vft2-i-ZREaUwTVLVq4U6uSRekYUJGGdxFgko7FST7ZmRzCBtf9uycLO4vOHCN50wYY4OWtIz-FxRy0Bwm/s400/_20170811_154607.JPG" width="331" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Check out my haul!</td></tr>
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<b>Final Thoughts</b><br />
This should come as no surprise but I WILL be back. They have a solid selection of basic bra making supplies for MOST women at very good prices. Everything I purchased was cheaper than any source I could find online - with the exception of one that maybe due to the better quality. Factoring in not having to pay of shipping and being able to satisfy my need for instant gratification, its a win-win. Oh, and they have their own private lot so no parking fee. When purchasing supplies for bra making, I will be heading to Finebrand first for basics, then head online for specialty items (underwires outside the RTW range, all fabrics related to unlined bra making, and other specialty notions etc) for the forseeable future.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-57231101673638014992017-08-06T08:03:00.002-07:002017-09-06T09:33:48.523-07:00Beauty Review - Foot Peeling Mask by THE FACE SHOP Okay, its a bit late for summer but I finally got my hands on one of those foot peels that give you baby feet! <br />
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Foot Peeling Mask from The Face Shop</div>
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A number of different Japanese/Korean companies make similar products at different price points but they all seem to have the same active ingredients. Lactic Acid and/or Salicylic Acid. You place your foot in the plastic boot, pour the magical liquid in and seal it. Wait a few hours and wash it off. The actual peeling takes a few days. In my case, exactly one week.</div>
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Depending on the brand, the directions may or may NOT state to soak your feet for 20-30 minutes first. I HIGHLY recommend that you do - especially if your feet are particularly dry/cracked. My first try with these type of foot peeling masks (diff company) yielded ZERO results - I assume thats because I didn't soak my feet. This attempt was quite successful.</div>
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The effects of peeling mid-process can be kinda gross feeling. I, uh, helped things along by gently scrubbing with a pumic stone. Although not quite finished, I can see the difference already. Scroll down to the end if you want to see a "in-progress" photo!</div>
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Conclusion: Try it out! I liked the peeling mask from The Face Shop as it smelled wonderful as well but I also saw different no-named brands in the Japanese Market for half the price!</div>
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WARNING!</div>
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Stop here if you don't want to see peeling feet!</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-23415948689822848182017-07-31T23:09:00.000-07:002017-08-19T00:03:44.046-07:00Sewing Bras - Another crack at the Merckwaerdigh Mix 30 bra!Its done! The (heavily modified) Merckewaerdigh Mix 30 bra in gorgeous black lace and blue lycra.<br />
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Pulled out my old dress form to model my new creation - with the help of some, ahem, enhancements to fill out the bra.<br />
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My <a href="https://multifariousmommy.blogspot.com/2017/06/sewing-my-first-merckwaerdigh-bra-and.html">first attempt</a> using this pattern out of the package didn't go to well and that bra has since been elevated to tester band status. Subsequent attempts to correct said issues yielded much headache due to lack of drafting experience. See in action below:<br />
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Not wanting to just toss it aside, I decided to try to salvage it by redrafting the cups. It took 5 attempts in muslin before the cups remotely looked like they fit properly. Unfortunately, something was lost in translation when I moved from the muslin to the stretchy cup lining fabric and it became too big. Of course, I didn't discover this until the bra was 90% complete. After dragging my feet on it for a week or two (and trying a few other small adjustments in hope I didn't have to take the cups apart completely) I finally gave in and redid the cups.<br />
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I determined that the outer cups can remain (and should remain) unchanged but the inner cups was drafted in a way where the top of the cups were TOO open (complete opposite of the problem I had the first time!). So after taking apart the seams, I went ahead and reduced the curvature of the inner cup piece from the apex up. For the most part, it worked. Just still a tad too projected for me at the moment (post weaning). Also the back band is tighter than usual - likely because the blue lycra doesn't have quite as much stretch as the powernet. It will likely just sit in the drawer. What does one do with {perfectly good, new} me-made bras that don't fit? Anyone interested in a giveaway? Approximately 30FF - great for someone who's narrow set, with lots of projection.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRWFtzhKv9d0alapGDer2c24jus11yghv2xL412epgHFfk1VWdzZnT_R-cDqDUNvkgFYG6Z0PurZ0H_apQRmRlr_ci-nezo_4By9szaI5p1EyenfbC_jw6xwKVotSXSmK4RVCM-GdC-3us/s1600/DSC_5817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1369" data-original-width="1600" height="545" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRWFtzhKv9d0alapGDer2c24jus11yghv2xL412epgHFfk1VWdzZnT_R-cDqDUNvkgFYG6Z0PurZ0H_apQRmRlr_ci-nezo_4By9szaI5p1EyenfbC_jw6xwKVotSXSmK4RVCM-GdC-3us/s640/DSC_5817.JPG" width="640" /></a> </div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-879488327621023482017-07-16T12:09:00.002-07:002017-07-16T12:18:14.770-07:00Sewing Bras - Troubleshooting the Merckwaerdigh Mix 30 BraSo a while back, I tried sewing the Merckwaerdigh Mix 30 bra and while the bra came together relatively easily, it didn't fit. I have since dismantled that bra and turned it into a <i>fitting band</i>. Its such a cute design - I really want to make it work. So I went back to made a bra to<br />
ile of the cups to see if I could find out what the problem was. The 32F (sister sized down from 36D!) toile cup was obviously too small so I tried the 32FF (sister sized from 38D) and its still not quite right. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvX-cXEEEWG22-WpzZGKxxHFbwRE5I5aaBq6xUiCd4p0xi93LyGNAgpI_P5ZYpkR2-613IQ7wRO5czbS_SyPeohRqc0bgnZQ-TUNrYaeL9o0JNkhsy5t52EBFHCg207-5Po1kMLVfNfz93/s1600/DSC_5732.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1061" data-original-width="1600" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvX-cXEEEWG22-WpzZGKxxHFbwRE5I5aaBq6xUiCd4p0xi93LyGNAgpI_P5ZYpkR2-613IQ7wRO5czbS_SyPeohRqc0bgnZQ-TUNrYaeL9o0JNkhsy5t52EBFHCg207-5Po1kMLVfNfz93/s400/DSC_5732.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Anyone else have this problem with the Mix 30 pattern? I don't really want to try the next cup size up (and last cup!) as that would require even more redrafting since the base of the cup would be too big for the cradle. I'm now on toile #4...Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-42014386485619219302017-07-14T12:38:00.003-07:002017-07-14T12:39:27.329-07:00Sewing Bras - Adjusting Your Custom Bra to Your Liking<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Custom Bra attempt #3 (or bra #5 in the grand scheme of things)!<br />
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After my last round of attempting to copy and merge various elements from two RTW bras with some minor adjustments, I (surprise, surprise) discovered I needed more adjustments! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX2Vpq6z2EtUwDj0noHQ6-cjNDKNO12_CJPEu8ZauVLl4rbQMMJgsi6q_8f4nJQfRtwqenp3hjhe8O8DFRHcOnOHU2SfWTn2MW1a7CBEl7fFiL0Mbiy9S80mB8PWM2WDNkfnWhO9ycHnhD/s1600/DSC_5715.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1371" data-original-width="1600" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX2Vpq6z2EtUwDj0noHQ6-cjNDKNO12_CJPEu8ZauVLl4rbQMMJgsi6q_8f4nJQfRtwqenp3hjhe8O8DFRHcOnOHU2SfWTn2MW1a7CBEl7fFiL0Mbiy9S80mB8PWM2WDNkfnWhO9ycHnhD/s320/DSC_5715.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Adjustment #1 - My bright idea of moving in the straps 2 cm seemed to flatten me out. I believe it has to do with the combination of the style and possibly the materials. The material I used for the foam lining is notably "softer" than the original thus slightly less structure? In a different style that is more "natural" and/or unlined, moving the straps 2 cm shouldn't make that much of a difference. Oh well. Lesson learned.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNdSMPAabQ6Ma1l3rMbU6tZ9bGz8DjSRI8P4wh4gnfMX7-qx0-ML1WP6ZjtWoaIC8JHI6q3q2YfLPGgrCXXzgTzeGcrVMNUNjY5hI0g_XsHbC6eUuFEeb-bT_1vlSXeY9H87zdDd4s8FRC/s1600/DSC_5706.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1242" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNdSMPAabQ6Ma1l3rMbU6tZ9bGz8DjSRI8P4wh4gnfMX7-qx0-ML1WP6ZjtWoaIC8JHI6q3q2YfLPGgrCXXzgTzeGcrVMNUNjY5hI0g_XsHbC6eUuFEeb-bT_1vlSXeY9H87zdDd4s8FRC/s400/DSC_5706.png" width="310" /></a>Adjustment #2 - In order to better mimic the RTW bra, I decided to try an "external" power bar. Incidentally, the RTW bra had both padded "internal" (inside the cups) and "external" (outside the cups) power bar! I had assumed the exterior power bar was for visual appeal only. How wrong I was! The power bar helps brings the girls up and center better than the bra alone. Even with higher side wings (more on that below). I lined up two of the outer cup pattern pieces to draft the power bar pattern as a starting point. Since the power bar was going to be made of stretchy material, it didn't have to be exact. I took my lightweight powernet (only type of powernet I had at the time) and folded it over so it was double layered and cut while lining up the fold on the straight edge. Then I cut a matching set in the last bit of matching lace I had. Zigzagged the three layers together with a bit of lingerie elastic and it was ready to attach to the main bra. The main portion of the bra was already complete at the point and I was feeling lazy, sooo... I just sewed it on to the cradle of the bra following the stitches from the wire casing. Same with the portion of the cups to the straps. It made it kinda bulky but did the job!<br />
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Adjustment #3 - By far the easiest adjustment with minimal issues, I went ahead and raised the height of the side wings a full inch. Its still not quite as high as the RTW bra I have, but a bit more comfortable while still keeping a smooth silhouette. [If you're wondering why in the world I would want to raise the side wings, check out my review on <a href="https://multifariousmommy.blogspot.com/2017/06/satami-bra-review.html">Satami bras</a>!] <br />
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Adjustment #4 - I decided to try my hand and adding lace detail that didn't have finished edges. It requires lots of zig zaging in different angles but thankfully, I have some free hand embroidery experience.<br />
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Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the end result! The bra lifts and "shapes" as I had hoped. It creates a rounder profile, which I prefer, and brings the girls closer together. My boobs have never felt better. No more settling for ill fitting RTW bras where the center gore is too wide [so its sitting on breast tissue], too tall [so its jabbing me in the chest], narrow back bands [causing back rolls, ugh], and my arms rubbing against my boobs when driving [I'm narrow set but they point wide]. I felt good enough about the bra to make a pair of matching panties late into the night. The pattern is based off the highly rated Merckenwaerdigh Mix 30.<br />
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I highly recommend trying to sew your own bra if you tend to have issues with most RTW bras. You can purchase bra making kits for less than cost of a full price bra at Nordstroms. Try out the FREE <a href="https://afiatelier.com/allpatterns/maya-bra/">Maya Bra pattern</a> from AFI Atelier (check out my review on them <a href="https://multifariousmommy.blogspot.com/2017/06/sewing-my-first-bra-maya-by-afi-atelier.html">here</a>) and/or take a look at the instructions. If you have ANY experience sewing, try it out. If you have zero experience with sewing but NEED pricey bras (cuz small band + large cups = $$$$), it may be worth your time and effort to learn to sew! With bra making kits at the same price as a new bra, what do you have to lose?Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-21005922910272106332017-07-04T23:39:00.000-07:002017-07-16T12:02:24.512-07:00Sewing Bras - Copying your favorite/best fitting RTW bra!<div dir="ltr">
As a newbie making their way in the lingerie sewing realm [after sewing a whopping 3 bras], I've decided to try my luck with combining my favorite aspects of 2 different bras info one custom design. The cups on the Comexim (my first Polish bra!) are awesome - they push the girls up and together while still looking "dainty". The extra wide band on the Satami is pretty fabulous as well - providing a smooth silhouette in my back <u>and</u> underarms. This, endeavor, however will require significant time pattern making.</div>
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Although I've been sewing for over 20 years (remember when Home Economics was a class in Junior High?), I've had no formal training in pattern drafting. Most of the pattern drafting I've done is largely with the help of Pinterest and Googling how-to's in Eggs middle of the night. I bring this up because I KNOW you absolutely need a pattern to sew bras AND that pattern HAS. TO. BE. ACCURATE. </div>
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I essentially copied the seam lines of the existing bra(s) using pattern paper, smoothed out the lines with a ruler and ensured all the seams lined up correctly and sewed up a bra muslin. Try on, more adjustments based on bra muslin, rinse and repeat. My first try sewing up this chimera of a bra was more or less an exact replica of the cups [barring correcting a few mistakes like the cups being too open, not pulling the plush elastic hard enough/evenly enough on the cups, etc] and fit pretty well otherwise. On my second attempt, I decided to move the apex of the cups to more closely align with mine AS WELL AS moving in the straps 2 cm. This opened up a whole new can of worms requiring more bra toiles. Nevertheless, take a gander at my newest creation - mistakes and all!</div>
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The end result of Round 2!:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirPHOerAspTubRStREHdCl_kUaTNvAWLgUNAh33Di0nI0A5mmTuqZLTHdQT5oTko3o3Dcuw6ELnsjOSdwoMdG_I8K7qfSpSKAlnlOagJYYiQ575uF7uuNxAo-g9cW84P52cQm87pD9zYcs/s1600/DSC_5640.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1314" data-original-width="1600" height="523" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirPHOerAspTubRStREHdCl_kUaTNvAWLgUNAh33Di0nI0A5mmTuqZLTHdQT5oTko3o3Dcuw6ELnsjOSdwoMdG_I8K7qfSpSKAlnlOagJYYiQ575uF7uuNxAo-g9cW84P52cQm87pD9zYcs/s640/DSC_5640.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO4tXp52HBrPgowz0S8Yhg4W66c0bje7QBrDck0lX2Zqa85K5WX54-V88tWNPh7WPyquWEWPYyy7fh2BXmODstQsajASrhgVZsj5SSaA-oNdExw9QsLrVAWHERMpKuj0IoAtsTlKNGixTG/s1600/DSC_5642.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1205" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO4tXp52HBrPgowz0S8Yhg4W66c0bje7QBrDck0lX2Zqa85K5WX54-V88tWNPh7WPyquWEWPYyy7fh2BXmODstQsajASrhgVZsj5SSaA-oNdExw9QsLrVAWHERMpKuj0IoAtsTlKNGixTG/s320/DSC_5642.png" width="241" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi58z9Tk-XovhMjxPDVeODTfuV7-Ch_WgirX7lgTxjylqy0plIx5UyTCCIueX1bzTnYEL6Z2pn47n3sXgrADQrXJFc61YhztZIIJfaR2cz8cSuqviMmz07vjpf9T-C7exdxee1V_y2qeURH/s1600/DSC_5643.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1310" data-original-width="1600" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi58z9Tk-XovhMjxPDVeODTfuV7-Ch_WgirX7lgTxjylqy0plIx5UyTCCIueX1bzTnYEL6Z2pn47n3sXgrADQrXJFc61YhztZIIJfaR2cz8cSuqviMmz07vjpf9T-C7exdxee1V_y2qeURH/s320/DSC_5643.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitbDloED4YXZrBCyo1s1plmZv2je7-goKcxj1EGokOc133MQBQIilbb82QfHZkGlyCUoSUjojqVBceFrUN_Cxk6flzYy_vCgsgAMWVTEPAwaZrVRXqnejv0lUYNPz6-JeuV7TX8qah8H5E/s1600/DSC_5644.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1119" data-original-width="1600" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitbDloED4YXZrBCyo1s1plmZv2je7-goKcxj1EGokOc133MQBQIilbb82QfHZkGlyCUoSUjojqVBceFrUN_Cxk6flzYy_vCgsgAMWVTEPAwaZrVRXqnejv0lUYNPz6-JeuV7TX8qah8H5E/s320/DSC_5644.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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One of the best pieces of advice I read about sewing bras is to create a bra toile, however, I recently came across a bit of related advice that I find equally helpful. Create a bra toile of ONLY the band. In most cases - especially true if you're fitting yourself - the band will fit fine and/or remain the same. Its the cup shape/design/size that differs that will require multiple adjustments. The <i>fitting band </i>should be complete - with elastic, hooks and straps. That way, you only need to make a toile of the bra cups! Easier to sew, try on, take apart and repeat as necessary.<br />
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Here's a pic from the <a href="https://merckwaerdigh.wordpress.com/2014/08/08/step-7-sewing-the-fitting-band/">Merckewaerdigh site</a>:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLPxB8nCg1JFWQuG890ArMQM4OIEiVJNKtUjUydev4mYdXGP6IMER5mnEo1m3ClFYyHOURxnrcyqPinpMUzlFs-IMxvl3oBd8q1Rx-9J5X1vq8z3OG98h_4ZDQ2DFsxbBtWELEcn7MkCA-/s1600/fittband.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="422" data-original-width="670" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLPxB8nCg1JFWQuG890ArMQM4OIEiVJNKtUjUydev4mYdXGP6IMER5mnEo1m3ClFYyHOURxnrcyqPinpMUzlFs-IMxvl3oBd8q1Rx-9J5X1vq8z3OG98h_4ZDQ2DFsxbBtWELEcn7MkCA-/s320/fittband.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3948395127026034037.post-2585324317681165372017-07-02T08:16:00.000-07:002017-07-04T07:47:24.720-07:00The Long Awaited Satami Bra Review!Its here! Its finally here! Satami has graciously sent me a few bras to review after I inquired about their bras availability here in the US.<br />
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The long awaited bras from Satami and my accompanying review.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPuaCtB_JFqR0kVRkZ_KunzBRFSNfXqd40yG_HrXeturhMtIP0uG8SYro1pidwJVY2s_HgBbK5bbNHttIXmpBNG3XzyoiseOq2mJJgFp7Xxx8Ttdh05jiSFOKZpgmplIlTsdeQ47ZZB_f9/s1600/2108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="570" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPuaCtB_JFqR0kVRkZ_KunzBRFSNfXqd40yG_HrXeturhMtIP0uG8SYro1pidwJVY2s_HgBbK5bbNHttIXmpBNG3XzyoiseOq2mJJgFp7Xxx8Ttdh05jiSFOKZpgmplIlTsdeQ47ZZB_f9/s320/2108.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2gCx4v2Ai-CCVORLS7KVZIUpobVPvF412ZZhVdboVCR4U7IHYhNvECJsyCPTwz0misM4_53XUtwcYpHyiloE36mgpANoQdJphuHu7hhfqe0iNBO7s2oCheNrNmbpqVUbOc_yLdGK8A702/s1600/2198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="570" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2gCx4v2Ai-CCVORLS7KVZIUpobVPvF412ZZhVdboVCR4U7IHYhNvECJsyCPTwz0misM4_53XUtwcYpHyiloE36mgpANoQdJphuHu7hhfqe0iNBO7s2oCheNrNmbpqVUbOc_yLdGK8A702/s320/2198.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Aren't they gorgeous? We have the Lace Minimizer Soft Cup Bra (2180) in Smoky Black on the left and Non-Wired Sports Bra (2198) in Blue on the right. </div>
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<b>Lace Minimizer Soft Cup Bra (2180)</b></div>
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The Lace Minimizer Soft Cup Bra (2180) has a few misnomers. First of all, its not a "minimizer" in the traditional (American) sense. This bra DOES NOT minimize the size or look of breasts in ANY way shape or form. Its called a Minimizer because of the the overall slimming effect it has on the body (think silhouette) by smoothing out back and/or underarm fat. More details on that below. The second misnomer is the "soft cup" - make no mistake, this is an UNDERWIRED bra with lightly lined fabric cups (ie. soft).</div>
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DESIGN AND STYLE</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZVpHFk4mq1OYG5r0ZrxUVFzSSF0x1ktr9dDjz2AJjcXmp7Rh4XHlfZ1GO-uQBSWwUcYvvLweBohfx4K7j_PRBf-3fhyu_muHNaEwzCuyh8S6sHzvgCgBli8FHU8aaquNX6iZaeh_V1GVu/s1600/2108_worn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="570" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZVpHFk4mq1OYG5r0ZrxUVFzSSF0x1ktr9dDjz2AJjcXmp7Rh4XHlfZ1GO-uQBSWwUcYvvLweBohfx4K7j_PRBf-3fhyu_muHNaEwzCuyh8S6sHzvgCgBli8FHU8aaquNX6iZaeh_V1GVu/s320/2108_worn.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Typical to Asian style bras, this plunge bra pushes the girls up and together (even with the padding removed). One feels supported and *shock* slimmer! Thanks to the extra wide band, there is ZERO and I mean ZERO back fat, or underarm fat. The sleek silhouette is addicting. Its akin to wearing shapewear that also happens to be a bra. To help keep everything in place is a 4 row, 4 column hook and eye in the back. The bra also features an ultra low center gores so common in Asian bras (low when compared to Panach or Freya, only 'medium' low within the Satami line) - a haven for us narrow set ladies - and 3/4 cup (aka demi?). [Need a primer on Asian bras? Check out my first Satami post <a href="http://multifariousmommy.blogspot.com/2017/05/satami-bras.html">here</a>.] The straps are fixed and NOT fully adjustable. For this reason, it may not work for those with tall roots. [Need a primer on the vocab? Try the <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/ABraThatFits/wiki/glossary">ABTF Glossary</a>] True to design, the 2-ply "Wincool" powernet seems to do the job. I wore this bra (padding removed) to an Amusement Park on a 90+ degree day and did not feel like the girls were suffocating. Speaking of which, the padding feels pretty great too - a bit like memory foam but I have not tried wearing them. The side wings have 2 pieces of boning on each side for extra support - not uncomfortable - they contribute significantly to the support of the band (I learned of their importance first hand during my foray in to <a href="http://multifariousmommy.blogspot.com/2017/06/sewing-my-first-bra-maya-by-afi-atelier.html">sewing my first bra</a>). Lastly, I do want to mention that while there was no chafing after a full day of wearing this bra (12+ hours) there was a bit of irritation under the arms due to the high side wings. This is likely due to my higher levels of activity and extra long hours of wearing - it is unlikely for someone to experience this during a typical day at the office.</div>
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FIT</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2D6JLxjtoLnqcDgfejd8H9dl8-8DdB3T0KTZ2ezoaMv8SJDnyuYKczX_XhVqoz_qX9eixdTNd3tVNYpyJ9yk0MyuX6C8C6N0d-nHJKxRpNWScIIHRzXpkNxqQ-hfdl2Dod31EgicTImId/s1600/2108_detail_front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="570" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2D6JLxjtoLnqcDgfejd8H9dl8-8DdB3T0KTZ2ezoaMv8SJDnyuYKczX_XhVqoz_qX9eixdTNd3tVNYpyJ9yk0MyuX6C8C6N0d-nHJKxRpNWScIIHRzXpkNxqQ-hfdl2Dod31EgicTImId/s320/2108_detail_front.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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My normal size in European brands like Panache or Freya is 32F (sometimes 32E as I'm loosing weight). In Satami, I wear a 34G. Per the Satami website, you can go up a cup size for more coverage. After a few 12+ hour days of wearing this bra, I can say with some confidence that if you are accustomed to wearing Polish bras like Comexim <i>IN YOUR NORMAL BAND SIZE, </i>order your normal band size. For example, I wear a 70H (equivalent to 32 band) in Comexim but it IS a bit tight and great for days when I'm feeling thin and not bloated. Basically, first thing in the morning before any type of meal. I do feel like a 32 band would have sufficed for me BUT I am accustomed to wearing tighter bands and wear tightlacing corsets occasionally. <b>For most of us though, going up a band size is going to be more comfortable.</b> The wires are comfortably in my IMF, although pretty high on the sides due to the higher side wings. Thankfully, the wires are also pretty soft so not uncomfortable. Center gore tacks nicely and the wide set straps stay put on my sloped shoulders. As I briefly mentioned before, the straps are NOT fully adjustable and fill likely suffice for those with Short Roots. Those with tall roots may need to replace the plush elastic portion with a longer section - not a difficult fix if you're handy with needle and thread. I have short roots and had to "let out" the elastic practically to the max...</div>
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CONCLUSION</div>
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I really like this bra! Its pretty comfy despite the higher wires, extra boning and extra wide band. There was very little (if any) fidgeting while wearing and my silhouette looked awesome. Girls were up front and center while being supported. Its the Asian equivalent of the holy grail Polish bras - from the tighter bands, overall shape the cups provide and needing to size up in the cups. Oh, and it passed the chasing after toddlers, walking up and down the stairs test. =) Full disclosure though, I'm FoB, not center-full and my breast tissue is still pretty firm. I think these style of bras - low center gore, plunge, shallow-ish cups work REALLY WELL with those whose shape is more shallow or FoB.</div>
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<b>Non-Wired Sports Bra (2198)</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWOvQEn3tJrGnGGh-pCEWzH-_W_25yPEFf1cwpt1JZT_RdB5V1R2vKCvWD0PLQlDpeNuoY74x6N66gvVUjdYM1CKLSom0n-GVt7ABmFJ4nI7jZ7q45yKSfXRvxxjrensN2CIf1zEKeXeQH/s1600/2198_worn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="570" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWOvQEn3tJrGnGGh-pCEWzH-_W_25yPEFf1cwpt1JZT_RdB5V1R2vKCvWD0PLQlDpeNuoY74x6N66gvVUjdYM1CKLSom0n-GVt7ABmFJ4nI7jZ7q45yKSfXRvxxjrensN2CIf1zEKeXeQH/s320/2198_worn.jpg" width="240" /></a>The Non-Wired Sports Bra is as beautiful as any of their regular bras. Gorgeous detailing and a 4 hook clasp in the back for ease. However, the most SURPRISING aspect of this Sports Bra is how pushed up and forward the girls are - all without the help of any boning or wires. Unlike most wireless bras that are compression based, this bra by some miracle, supports without smooshing the girls against your chest. Like their regular bra line, this sports bra also features a plunge - although not as deep - just enough to glimpse a bit of cleavage. Add this to your rotation for those days at barre class, yoga, power walking or other light exercise. Its comfortable to wear lounging around the house and the saleswoman at the Personal Touch Store also mentioned its a great sleep bra!</div>
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DESIGN AND STYLE</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijMErKV_uT32pD7i1ZBIfOfNbCc2QThQJwwdT0Z-HFdhiub_XBzd4fxzZXE-QxYw44_j6Q82uh62nuFQ5HVb1PHXNDE0ERCbUx7ThV2McBppToRILStKW3HKu2YPCO5Po31TuqbvHi22Jb/s1600/2198_detail_front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="570" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijMErKV_uT32pD7i1ZBIfOfNbCc2QThQJwwdT0Z-HFdhiub_XBzd4fxzZXE-QxYw44_j6Q82uh62nuFQ5HVb1PHXNDE0ERCbUx7ThV2McBppToRILStKW3HKu2YPCO5Po31TuqbvHi22Jb/s320/2198_detail_front.jpg" width="240" /></a>Like Satami's regular bras, the Wireless Sport Bra also features extra wide bands and plunge center. The bra looks deceivingly shallow until you put it on. Materials are light and airy but substantial enough to be supportive. The cup portion of the bra comes up pretty high (as in elastic straps start 1 inch before my shoulder) but not uncomfortable. Unlike the typical wireless sports bras we find in the US, the cups are NOT made of stretchy material designed to compress the girls against your chest. The cups are made of the same material as their regular bras - thus the feeling of structured support without wires or boning. Like Satami's other bras, the back features a 4 row - 4 column clasp for ease. The band is a single layer of powernet to guarantee breathability during those workouts! </div>
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FIT</div>
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As mentioned above, my usual size in UK brands is 32F. Satami sent me a 34E in this style and it still fits comfortably as its sister size to my usual - no need to size up here! This makes complete sense as Satami uses UK sizing [bit of history here - HK was once a part of the British Empire for those that remember]. </div>
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CONCLUSION</div>
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Great bra for lounging around the house, sleeping and light physical activity. Although I have not worn this one yet, I can easily foresee wearing this around the house, sleeping and/or while pregnant!</div>
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